The Illustrated Encyclopaedia of Costume and Fashion, 1550–1920

168 Pages·1986·24.731 MB·English

by  Jack Cassin-Scott

THE ILLUSTRATED ENCYCLOmEDIA Of
COSTUME
^FASHION
IS&O'I^U
OA
a
JacK -Scott
""^l^"
Take acolourfuljourneythrough time. We start in
thoseturbulentyearsofwarand intrigue, the Late
MiddleAges, which spanned the reignsofsome
of Europe's most memorable monarchs before
moving on tothe High Renaissance and through
tothe so-called Ageof Reason and Elegance. In
every period a hostoffigures depictthe age's
colourful characters ranging from peasantsto
princes, from musiciansto musketeers.
This bookthen goes onto explorethe most
brilliantand exciting epoch in costume history,
the Rococo. Itselaboratelyornamented
architecture, furniture and artprovided new
concepts in decorative and even fantastic
costumes. Francecontinued to lead thefashion
world throughoutthe Revolution, the Directoire,
the Empire, the Romantic Era and the Second
Rococo butthen English, German, Spanish and
other European influences begintoemerge.
English designs became increasingly influential
duringtheVictorian eraandthe earlyyears ofthe
twentieth century. Norwas America behind. Elias
Howe's invention ofthe sewing machine in 1846
facilitated greatadvancement in theclothing
industryand led tothe latetwentieth century
revolution in casual fashion.
Intracing thefascinating and colourful changes
ofnearly400years, thisencyclopediawith its 150
colourillustrationsofthegreatyearsoffashion
will beas interesting and valuabletothe modern
fashion designer, the photographer, the
wardrobe mistressortheatrical performeras it is
tothegeneral reader.
JackCassin-Scott is well known forhis models
and his illustrations in bookson military uniforms.
He has made a life-long studyofcostume and
fashion.
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^
BOSTOTSI
PUBLIC
LIBRARY

THEILLUSTRATEDENCYCLOmCDIAOf
COSTUME
^FASHION
15501920

THE ILLUSTRATEDENCYCLORiVEDlA OF
COSTUME
^FASHION
15501920
Jack Cassin-Scott
BLANDFORD PRESS
POOLE NEW YORK SYDNEY
HN6T0N VILLAGE
FirstpublishedintheUK1986byBlandfordPress, SourcesofIllustrationsinthePlates
LinkHouse, WestStreet, Poole. DorsetBH15ILL
1BronzineandHansEworlh.2TitianandGeorgeGower 3BartholBruynandHans
Eworth 4CornelisKetelandPantojadelaCruz.5AntonioMoreandanUnknown
Copyright©1971, 1975and1986BlandfordPressLtd FlemishArtist 6FrancoisClouetandNationalTrust,Shrewsbury 7AlonzoSanchez
Coello,8ContemporaryContinentalSources.9ContemporaryContinentalSources.
10PantojadelaCruz, 11 PourbusandanUnknownArtist. 12IsaacOliverandThe
DistributedintheUnitedStatesby C14osRteuumbeensMusaenudm.conLtoenmdpoonrar1y3DCaonnitelmenMtyatlensSouarncdesZur15GVesacnhicDhytcekdearndKosGteurmaer.d
SterlingPublishingCo., Inc., Honthorst 16Contemporary Continental Sources 17Diego de Silva Velazquez.
2ParkAvenue, NewYork, N.Y. 10016. 18Contemporary Continental Sources 19Abraham Bosse and Gerard Honthorst.
20VanDyckandDanielMytens 21 MeissonierandanUnknownArtist.22Wenceslaus
DistributedinAustraliaby HollarandEngravingofthe17thcentury 23DiegodeSilvaVelazquez.24VanDyck.
CapricornLink(Australia)PtyLtd, 25Van Dyck. 26Wenceslaus Hollar 27Wenceslaus Hollar and Daniel Mytens.
POBox665, LaneCove, NSW2066 32W08enWWceeennsccleeassullsaauuHssolHloaHlrol.lalr3,a3r31DiaGenegdroarcddeontSteirelmBvpaoorVcrehalraaynzdquCWeoeznntci3en4selnAat,ualsVHaoSnloluaTrrec.mesp3.e2lI,2C93,5VMaGeneyrearDrnydcatkne.dr
Borch 36Netscher,37ID Saint-JeanandGerardterBorch 38BonnartandID,de
BritishLibraryCataloguinginPublicationData Saint-Jean 39ID deSaint-Jean.40ID.deSaint-JeanandContemporaryContinental
Cassin-Scott,Jack Sources 41 Hyacinthe Rigaud and ID de Saint-Jean 42ID de Saint-Jean and
Theillustratedencyclopaediaofcostumeandfashion CanodntaenmpUonrkanroywCnonAtritniesntta4l5SBoourncneasrd4a3nTdroCuovnatienmpaonrdaIrDy.CodnetiSanienntt-aJleaSn,ou4rc4esLa.rg4i6llZieurre
1550-1920. GeschichtederKostumeandanUnknownArtist 47JodokusVerbeek,48Contemporary
1.Costume-History ContinentalSourcesandTempleNewsomHouse,Leeds 49GodfreyKneller,50Richard
WaittandContemporaryContinentalSources 51WilliamHogarthandContemporary
391'.009 GT580'<^3"7 J ^^L'Y^ GCaolnlteirnyenotfatlheSoEunrgcleissh.C5o2stHuermrei.seMtan5ch3eAsltearn,R5a5mWsialyl.ia5m4HAongarotrhi,gin5a6lFsrpaenccoiimsenBouatchTehr,e
57Arthur Devis and Adolphe Menzel, 58Adolph Menzel and Henry Pickering.
ISBN 713718110 5Al9beTratylMoursseCuomm.pl1e7t6e0-G7u0i.de6.21A7f9t6er6C0alCeto.nt1m7e7n5t.a6l3lJiotuhrongraalpdhe,sc,Lu1i7u65s,u6n1dVdiecrtoMroiadeann.d
1786 64AfterLister.1789.65ModeinCostume.Wilcox.1789,66/67JournaldesLuxus
Allrightsreserved. Nopartofthisbookmay u17n9d2de6r9MJooduernna.ld1e7s90L-u9x1u.s68unCdodsetruMmoedCeanv.al1c7a9d2ea70ndAfJtoeurrnNalHdeeisdeLluoxfuf.s1u7n9d4de7r1MJooduernna,l
bereproducedortransmittedinanyformorby derLuxusundderModen. 1793.72AfterVernet, 1793 73AfterVernetandTresca,
anymeans, electronicormechanical, including M17o9d5e.s,741J8o0u1r,na7l7dejrouLrunxaulsduesndDdaemresM.ode18n0.5,187080Jo7u5rnLaalMdeessanDgaemree.s.181080,09,767J9ouMronia^ledems
photocopying, recordingoranyinformationstorage Costume.Wilcox,1808.80/81JournaldesDamesandallgememeMode.1810/11/12/13.
andretrievalsystem, withoutpermissionin 8M2agLaaziMnees.ang1e8r1e8., 188514L.a8d3ysJouMrnaagladzemse.Dam1e8s2,0.181856.A8l4lgJeomuerinnaeldeMsodDeazmeietsunagn.dL1a8d2y2'.s
writingfromthePublisher. 87ConciseHistoryofCostume.Laver,1826.88JournaldesDames,1826,89Journaldes
DamesetdesModes,1829.90JournaldesDamesetdesModes,1831,91ConciseHistory
of Costume, Laver, 1831, 92Allgemeine Modezeitung, 1833, 93Allgemeine
TypesetbyMegaron Typesettmg Modezeitung. 1834. 94Monthly Belle Assemble. 1836/37. 95La Mode, 1836 and
MonthlyBelleAssemble. 1836 96/97ModedePans.1838,98JournaldesDamesetdes
Modes.1840/41.99AllgemeineModezeitung. 1840.100LeBonTon.1839.101Journal
Printedin HongKongbySouth ChinaPrintingCo. dMeesnDsamCleosthe1s8.42184160,21A0l5lgAelmlegienmeeiMnoedeMzoedietzuenigt.ung18,441.8418031L0e6FLoeletM.oncit1e8u4r6.de10l4aMCoudteo.f
1849 107Allgemeine Modezeitung, 1850, lOBAllgemeine Modezeitung. 1851.
m 109WeinerElegante. 1852. 110CutofWomensClothes. 1855,child'sfashion.1852,
111Continental lithograph, c, 1860, 112/113Penelope, der Bazarand continental
61^7 l1i1t6hoMgargapahz,in1e85d5e/5D7e.mo1i1s4elCloess.tu1m8e60Cav1a1l7caMdaeg,az1i85n7e,d1e15DeCmoonitsienlelnetsa.l1l8i6t2hog1r1a8phM,acg.a1z8i6n0e.
des Demoiselles. 1862. 119Continental lithograph, c. 1863 120Allgemeine
Modezeitung. 1865 121After Tissot. 1873. 122Continental lithograph, c. 1876.
123Continental lithograph, c. 1876 124Continental lithograph, c 1879, 125Con-
tinental lithograph, c. 1880 126Continental lithograph, c 1881. 127Continental
lithograph, c, 1884, 128/129American and continental lithographs, 1885/87.
130Continentallithograph,c,1887.131CostumeCavalcade.1888,132DerBazar.1893.
133CutofWomensClothes,1894,134CasselsMagazme.1895 135CasselsMagazine.
1895, 136CasselsMagazine. 1895,137CasselsMagazine. 1896.138CasselsMagazine,
1896. U9Cassels Magazine. 1897 140After Reznicek, 1899 141 Cut of Women's
Clothes.1903,142/143JllustnerteFrauenzeitungandJournaldesDames.1908/9.144Die
Dame, 1912. 145JournaldesDemoiselles. 1912, 146LesModesanddieDame. 1913.
147DieDame.1915,148DieDame.1917.149Vogue.1918andWienerModezeitung.
1918 150CutofWomen'sClothesandtheTailorandCutter.1920s.
-
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Contents
Glossary 6
Introduction 8
1550-1620 (Plates 1 12) 9
1620-1670 (Plates 13 -36) 21
1670-1760 (Plates 37 -59) 45
1760-1789 (Plates 60 -64) 68
1789-1794 (Plates 65 -72) 73
1795-1804 (Plates 73 -77) 81
1804-1820 (Plates 78--85) 86
1820-1840 (Plates86--99) 94
1840-1870 (Plates 100-120) 108
1870-1900 (Plates 121 -140) 129
1900-1920 (Plates 141 -150) 149
Index 159
Glossary
Aiglets Metaltagsusedtojoinsleevesandhoseto Capuchincollar Continuousrolledcollar Full-bottomedwig Shoulderlengthlargewigwith
doublet Caraco Woman'sthigh-lengthlacketwornwithlong centrepartingandcurlsframingface
Aigrettes Standingplumeoffeatherswornonthehead petticoat Furbelow Deep,puckeredflounce
Alachinoise Hairpulledtightlybackatsidesofhead Carmagnole Peasantjacket Gaiter Coveringforinsteporankle,sometimes
intoknotheldwithanornamentalpmorbowatback Cartwheelruff Largestifflystarchedcollar extendingtoknees
AoflcaotnitduesmnCerdopvpiecdtihmasiarswtayiletmsgupepxoesceutditoonrbeysegmubillleotlionceks Castellated Decorativeslashingsofedgesofgarments, Callouses Braces(suspendersUSA)
intosquarecutedges Gigo((leg-o'-mutton) Sleeves,verywideatshoulder,
AcurllasmaatdeoitnhnerasiHdaeirpartedinmiddlewithringletsor Clianueld Capofsilkorgoldthreadnetwork,oftensilk tGoalpielrliinaggSrpaadnuiaslhlyfortoswtrainsdtingcollarroundbackofhead
Athesofuosotpieds Trousersorpantaloonsfasteningunder Cavalierhat TypeofhatwornbyEnglishRoyalists Guards Borderseitherplainordecoratedtoconceal
nBeacgkwig Queueofwigplacedinblacksilkbagatnapeof Cwhaixtoenwig(ortiewig) Wornforundressandusually sHeaanmgsertypesword Wornfromwaistbeltandfrog,
Bshaoludlrdiecrk,Wsiudppeorsatsihngofassiwlkorordleather,wornoverright CwihgaspeanaduhberaadsdrTeisnsyestrwiecrorenvheartyclaarrrgieedunderarmwhen uIsnucarlolyyabwloernDaunnddeyrocfoa1t795
Bfraonndtstrings Usuallytasselledtiesforfasteningruffsin CshhoaupledreornceapHeeaddresscombininghoodandsmall JwaobrontwFiutllhforrilnlaamtennetcakl,pkinnotattetdhraotabtack,sometimes
Banyan Loosecoatwornindoors,usuallyofwashable Chemise Undergarmentoflinenwornbymaleand Jockei Shortoversleeve
female
material Justaucorps Frenchnameforman'sclose-fittingcoat
Basque Veryshortoverskirtsewnontobodice Chemisette Tulle,cambricormuslincoveringto wornoverwaistcoat
decolletage
Bnaevcoklet Shortveilattachedtobackofbonnet,shading Cherusque Standingruffcollarmadeoflace KhainmgoinnoglsolenegveeraWtibdaeckhangingsleeves,sometimes
Bents Stripsofboneorwoodtodistendfarthingales Cjulsotaakbobvaegbkrneeeeches Baggy,ovalshapedbreechesfitted Knickerbockers Full,knee-lengthbreeches
sBheorutlhdaerDseepcollaroflaceorsilkaroundneckand Cod-piece Smallbagformedattheforkofmen'shose; LhaapnpgeitngLdaocwenorolnineeinthpeiresciedseaotftafcahceedtocap,usually
Spanishorigin
Betsie Smallneckruffoffinelawnorlace Coif Bonnettypeclosefittingcap M17a7c0a-r8o0ni Youngmandressedinextremeoffashion
Bicorne Man'shatturnedupatfrontandbackforming Copotainhat Hatwithahighconicalcrownwitha
pointseitherside narrowbrim Mameluke Fullsleevetiedinpuffsatintervalsfrom
gBaitshheorpedslienevteowLraidsyt'scudffaysleevewithfullshoulder, Caodranyetcahpat Madeoflace,andworninvariousstylesas MsahonutledleerttSohwarwisltwornaroundshoulders
Bombast Paddingandstuffingtodistendgarments Decolletage Lownecklineofalady'sdress Mantilla Veiltapedoverheadorshoulder;Spanish
Bfoorneghreaacde Oblongstiffenedheadpieceprojectingover Dtiegmhit-tgoigthoetwrSilsetevefullfromshouldertoelbow,then oMraingitnuagown Looseunbonedbodicegownwornwith
aBnrdanbduetntbounrsgs Ornamentalfasteningsorbraidedloops Dwaoiusbtleedt Bombastjacketusuallyclosefittingand oMepdeincfirocnoltlrareveSatlainndgipnegttcioclolaartraonudnfditbtaedckwiotfhnleocnkgatnrdain
Brutus Roman-style,untidyhaircut Dundreary Hairstylewithwidewhiskers madefromnetorlace
Buffcoat Sleevelessmilitarycoalofoxhide Echelles Stomachertrimmeddownfrontwithribbon Mfaecnetonnieres Frillsroundinsideofbonnet,framing
Buffon Gauze,linenorlaceneckerchief bows
Merveilleuse FemalecounterpartoftheIncroyable,
Bumroll Paddedrollfordistendinghips Engageantes Rufflesoflaceshowingatcuffofdress 1795;exaggeratedstylere-introducedbrieflyin1908
Burnous MantlewithhoodinfluencedbyArabian Epaulette Collar,oftenoflace,frequentlycovering Muscadin Dandyof1790s.namedafterscentedpastille
garmentofsamename shoulders ofmuskwhichhecarried
Buskin Close-fitting,calf-lengthboot,usuallyof Escarpins Low-cutflatslippers Negligee Termusedbymaleandfemaleforinformal
leather Fallingbandcollar Collarwhichlayonshoulders dress
BhuisptslaetbPaacdkwornunderneathskirttoextendcontourof Fwiatnhcohuotnsbuopnpnoertt Smallday-timecap Netherstocks Lowerstockingportionofhose
CtrohaledlsboaagcbakonvoefMaenlaerecs:kahhnaedilrdqstuiynelupeelwaitchteehbbytawcnoke.thooFrreimrzaiolnbetb:aolnlacrugrelebdun Fhaorotphsinogfalbeonoer,vwerodoidngeatlce Structureexpandingskirtby sPPahalogluoaltddiaenreslteSoehevoleubloFdwue,nrntwehlre-ansphwaifpodreednlaisdnliegeesvteo,wrtiisghttwfirtohmruffles
Calash Largefoldinghoodofwhaleboneorcane Fedora Velourhatwithfairlyhightaperingcrown Panes Producedeitherbyslashingorstripsofribbon
hoops,coveredinsilk Fichu Triangularpieceofmaterialdrapedoverlow setclosetogether
aCnadmpsahoirgtnqwuiegusebMeilhiitnadrytypewigswithshortsidelocks FfnreoiclnlktslasinungepepoLritneednbcyapwiwriethfrtaalmleerectionsoflaceorlinen PPaannntiaelroonFsrenLcohngf,ortitghhetstirdoeuhseorosps
Canezou Bodicewithhighnecklineandlongsleeves Frenchhood Smallbonnetwornatbackofheadwith Pantalettes Separatelegcoveringswithrufflesthat
Canions Extensionsfromtrunkhosetoknees frontbordercurvingroundtheears extendbelowhemofdress
Capote Ornatebonnetwithribbonbowstyingatsides Frogging Decorativeloopfasteningsforcoat Partlet Typeofchemisetteor fillin'forlowdecolletage
orfront