The Food of Texas: Authentic Recipes from the Lone Star State

150 Pages·2000·24.498 MB·English

by  Caroline Stuart

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THE FOOD OF
TEXAS
Authentic Recipes from the Lone Star State
by Caroline Stuart
With additional essays by Dotty Griffith
Featuring recipes from the following Texas restaurants-.
Reata Restaurant DeVilk Restaurant
Star Canyon Ruggks Grill
Laurels Boulevard Bistrot
Cafe Annie Las Canarias
Americas Pappas Brothers Steakhouse
The Mansion on Turtle Creek
Photography by Jacob Termansen and Will van Overbeek
Styling by Christina Ong
PERIPLUS

Contents
FART ONE: FOOD IN TEXAS
Introduction 5
Culinary History of Tfexas 6
The Biggest and the Best of Tfexas 11
The Mexican Connection 15
Where's the Beef? ip
Around the State 22
FART TWO: COOKING IN TEXAS
The Tfexas Kitchen 29
Tfexas Ingredients 30
FART THREE: THE RECIPES
Football Snacks 35
Snacks and Appetizers 38
Soups Salads, and Sandwiches 48
;
Seafood 66
Poultry 72
Meat 88
Desserts 114
Drinks 126
APPENDICES
Additional Recipes 127
Acknowledgments 140
Sources 141
Shops SArtists 141
Index 143

Part One: Food in Texas
From the prairies to the Gulf Coast, the Lone Star State has it all
by Caroline Stuart
When we think of Texas, it is inevitable—and a table with crunchy Southern fried chicken, German
expected—that legend springs to mind. It is, bacon-laced potato salad, and Mexican nachos. All
after all, the second-largest state in the U.S. and home to be washed down with margaritas or ice-cold beer.
to larger-than-life legends Buddy Holly, Lyndon B. The state's location provides the backdrop for this
Johnson, Scott Joplin, and Gene Autry. From its rich, varied cuisine. The Gulf Coast supports a
panhandle on down to the Gulf of Mexico and the thriving seafood industry; Texas wineries have
Rio Grande, Texas is filled to its ten-gallon brim with existed since 1662 when Franciscan priests discov-
cattle drives and chuck wagon meals, ornery ered local grapes. Strong culinary influences from
longhorn steer, and oil gushers spewing black gold. neighboring Mexico permeate menus throughout the Opposite:
Everything here is big, from its prairies, to its state. Long ties to the colonial South put peach Patron John
Boutin prepares
ranches, to its oil baron mansions. Make no mistake, cobbler on the tables of East Texas, while Cajun
to devour a
the Lone Star State is known for the serious appetites cooks from Louisiana introduced gumbos. Other crispy-fried tower
of its loyal Texans. And the history of Texas food is immigrant influences arrived from farther afield, of onion rings at
Restaurant Biga
equally impressive. Over hundreds of years, its providing more intrigue to the mix: Spanish chorizo
in San Antonio.
culinary heart and soul has been shaped by sausage and fruit-filled Czech pastries. Hell wash it
countless inhabitants, each stirring their own Eating establishments vary as much as the fare. down with a
bottle of Shiner
ingredients into timeless Lone Star recipes. Barbecue joints remain justly famous for succulent
Bock beer, brewed
Just sample this diversity for yourself. Early brisket, ribs, and chicken. Urban cowboys crowd locally in Shiner,
Spanish explorers found Native Americans making upscale restaurants to savor farm-raised ostrich Texas.
fry bread, raising vegetables, and flavoring their food and foie gras. At steak houses, beef connoisseurs sip
with local pecans. Chicken-fried steak, a Texas martinis and devour steaks that may weigh a full
classic, was an adaptation of German immigrants' pound. Simply put, Texans in boots and jeans
beloved Wiener schnitzel. And in San Antonio, or sequins and silk are making the most of the most,
Mexican buhuelos are still a Christmas tradition; whether their meal came from a Texas cattle
Each region has a style of food to boast about, ranch or a traditional Mexican kitchen. Legend
resulting in fascinating cross-cultural creations. In aside, a Texan's kitchen is ground zero for a meal
fact, it's not unusual for a pot of fiery chili to share you won't soon forget. Yahoo!
INTRODUCTION 5
Culinary History of Texas
From ranch house to wursthaus,
the influences on Texas cuisine might surprise you
by Dotty Griffith
In Texas, as in other areas throughout the United In the early nineteenth century, many settlers
States and the world, multiple influences—his- came from the Deep South, introducing Texans to
toric, ethnic, geographic, and climatic—converge to culinary traditions from states such as Louisiana and
The chuck wagon shape the local cuisine. But few places can claim the Arkansas. Consequently, the food ways of
was the country's
diversity of Texas. In turn, Texas cooking traditions, Southerners, including the defining culinary influ-
first take-out
along with those of neighboring regions, have been ence of African slaves, left a lasting impression on
restaurant.
Drawn by horse transformed by contempo- Texans' tables. Likewise, a
or mule, it would rary chefs into the robust strong French heritage—
follow the
and innovative modern Cajun and Creole dishes
roundup twice
yearly to the culinary movement known arrived from the Texas-
outermost reaches as Southwestern cuisine. Louisiana border and the
of the ranch and
In the fifteenth and six- upper Gulf Coast—is also
provide food,
utensils, bedrolls, teenth centuries, Spaniards deliciously significant.
and medical arrived in the colonies that From fried chicken to
supplies to would become Mexico and black-eyed peas to Cajun
cowboys. The
Texas. Not only did they shrimp, many Texans'
"Cooltie" would
prepare food for bring European culinary favorite dishes whistle
the evening, the traditions, they also Dixie.
cowboys would
brought Central American chiles. It was to be the Gastronomic impact also came from more
help in the
clean-up, and beginning of a long and delicious relationship unlikely sources. Throughout the 1800s, boatloads
entertainment by which spanned 300 years and left its mark firmly of German immigrants, fleeing political upheaval,
harmonica would
on the cuisine. Flavors, techniques, and ingredients disembarked along the Gulf Coast, particularly in
precede the night's
hard-earned from south of the border remain evident in Texas Galveston, and made Texas their home. Many then
slumber. today. And though Texas broke from Mexico in made their way to the heart of the state, known
1836, Texicans (as early Texans were known) today as the Hill Country. The influence of the
never forsook the culinary staples of tortillas, retried Germans' skill at smoking meat and concocting
beans, and enchiladas. pungent sausages is apparent in the classic Texas
6 PART ONE: FOOD IN TEXAS