Southern Africa - Zambia & Victoria Falls (Chapter) - Lonely Planet

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by  Lonely Planet

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Edition 6th Edition, August 2013
Pages 69 COVERAGE INCLUDES:
Page Range 549–601, 533-548
• Lusaka • Lower Zambezi
Useful Links • Eastern Zambia Valley
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• Southern Zambia • Understand &
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Victoria Falls
Why Go?
Zambia ............538 Taking its place alongside the Pyramids and the Serengeti,
Livingstone Victoria Falls (Mosi-oa-Tunya – the ‘smoke that thunders’)
& Around .......... 538 is one of Africa’s original blockbusters. And although Zim-
babwe and Zambia share it, Victoria Falls is a place all of
Zimbabwe ..........544
its own.
Victoria Falls .......544
As a magnet for tourists of all descriptions – backpack-
ers, tour groups, thrill seekers, families, honeymooners – Vic
Falls is one of the earth’s great spectacles. View it directly as
Best Places to Eat a raging mile-long curtain of water, in all its glory, from a
helicopter ride or peek precariously over its edge from Dev-
» Cafe Zambezi (p542) il’s Pools; the sheer power and force of the falls is something
» In Da Belly (p546) that simply does not disappoint.
» Olga’s Italian Corner Whether you’re here purely to take in the sight of a natu-
(p542) ral wonder of the world, or for a serious hit of adrenaline via
rafting or bungee jumping into the Zambezi, Victoria Falls
» Mama Africa (p547)
is a place where you’re sure to tick off numerous items from
that bucket list.
Best Places to
Stay When to Go
» Victoria Falls Hotel (p545) There are two main reasons to go to Victoria Falls – to view
the falls and to experience the outdoor activities – and each
» Elephant Camp (p546)
has its season.
» Jollyboys Backpackers July to December is the season for white-water rafting,
(p539) especially August for hardcore rapids.
» Stanley Safari Lodge From February to June don’t forget your raincoat as you’ll
(p541) experience the falls at their full force.
From July to September You’ll get the best views of the
falls, combined with lovely weather and all activities to keep
you busy.
534
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IES CHINOTIMBA PioneerRd LawleyRd Victoria Za mbeziRiverFourth Gorge
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Seventh Natural Wonder of ed and touched: it is a treat that few other
places in the world can offer, a ‘must see
the World
before you die’ spot.
Victoria Falls is the largest, most beautiful Victoria Falls is spectacular at any time of
and most majestic waterfall on the planet, year, yet varies in the experiences it offers.
and is the Seventh Natural Wonder of the
2
World as well as being a UNESCO World Activities
Heritage Site. A trip to Southern Africa While of course it’s the spectacular sight of
would not be complete without visiting this Vic Falls that lures travellers to the region,
unforgettable place. the astonishing amount of activities to do
One million litres of water fall – per sec- here is what makes them hang around.
ond – down a 108m drop along a 1.7km wide White-water rafting, bungee jumping, tak-
strip in the Zambezi Gorge; an awesome ing a chopper ride over the falls, walking
sight. Victoria Falls can be seen, heard, tast- with rhinos: Vic Falls is well and truly estab-
535
lished as one of the world’s premier adven- way up, not upside down. There are two
ture destinations. main spots, one right off the Victoria Falls
To get the best value out of your time Bridge, and the other a bit further along the
here, look into packages which combine vari- Batoka Gorge. Costs for single/tandem are
ous adrenaline leaps, slides and swings for US$125/195.
around US$125. Confirm any extra costs such Combine bungee with a bridge swing and
as park or visa fees at the time of booking. bridge slide, and it’ll cost US$160.
Costs are fairly standard across the board
Canoeing & Kayaking
and activities can be organised through ac-
On the Zambian side, take on the Zambezi’s
commodation providers and tour operators.
raging rapids in an inflatable kayak on a full-
Abseiling day trip (US$155), or learn to eskimo roll by
Strap on a helmet, grab a rope and spend signing up for half-/one-/three-day courses
the day rappelling down the 54m sheer-drop for US$82/145/412.
cliff face for US$40. Otherwise there are peaceful canoe trips
along the Upper Zambezi River on two-
Birdwatching
person inflatable canoes for US$125 or even
Twitchers will want to bring binoculars to
more relaxed three-hour guided sunset trips
cthhee crke goiuotn ,4 7in0c lsupdeicniegs Socfh baliordws’ st htuart aicnoh, atbhiet fnoirg hUt Sja$u6n0t si nccolsutd UinSg$ 2w0i0n,e wainthd lboenegre. rO trvieprs- VIcTVIcTdeTO
African finfoot and half-collared kingfisher. available. ORORUR
St T(B1rphu1ipo1enm t ag tl)theo,h eenitmr hgJd i uts-ohh mnfeiag pfZmhoiaeonomstgu ti b sn& e bjt zuSuhi.mnew gppiena egir sks sifn roo rm toh nea ato cwpa ontrholdee SuchClpnouueuddlntree.udr sY r taoaahn ulte rA ecaSavcdoentinuit vaiitonirhtnrgeiaae rnblns gym eAa eft aroclia ,cw mafoanprt f csiUhrke Sya ,$ dn2wrd5uh pmfiocamhrr t tiiinhcnige-- IA fALLs IA fALLs : VIcTORIA f ACT
iconic Victoria Falls bridge. It’s a long way pate in traditional dance for US$40. ALIV
down, but man, it’s a lot of fun. It costs LIT
US$125 per person. Fishing s IES A
Otherwise there’s the bridge swing where Grab a rod and cruise out to the Zambezi C
T
you jump feet first, and free fall for four for the opportunity to reel in a mighty tiger IV
seconds; you’ll end up swinging the right fish, for around US$125 for a half day, and IT
IE
S
THE FALLS VIEWING SEASON
Though spectacular at any time of year, the falls has a wet and dry season and each
brings a distinct experience.
When the river is higher and the falls fuller it’s the Wet, and when the river is lower
and the falls aren’t smothered in spray it’s the Dry. Broadly speaking, you can expect the
following conditions during the year:
January to April The beginning of the rainy season sees the falls begin their transitional
period from low to high water, which should give you decent views, combined with expe-
riencing its famous spray.
May to June Don’t forget your raincoat, as you’re gonna get drenched! While the falls
will be hard to see through the mist, it’ll give you a true sense of its power as 500 mil-
lion litres of water plummets over the edge. The mist during this time can be seen from
50kms away. If you want views, don’t despair, this is the best time for aerial views with a
chopper flight taking you up and over this incredible sight.
July to October The most popular time to visit, as the mist dissipates to unveil the best
views and photography options from directly across the falls, while the volume main-
tains its rage to give you an idea of its sheer force.
November to January The least popular time to visit, as temperatures rise and the falls
are at their lowest flow. But they’re still impressive nevertheless, as the curtain of water
divides into sections. The advantage of this time of year is you’re able to swim right up
to the edge of Devil’s Pool on the Zambian side.
536
ZIM OR ZAM?
Victoria Falls straddles the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia, and is easily ac-
cessible from both countries. However, the big question for most travellers is: do I visit
the falls from the town of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, or from Livingstone, Zambia? The
answer is simple: visit the falls from both sides and, if possible, stay in both towns.
From the Zimbabwean side you’re further from the falls, though the overall views are
better. From the Zambian side, for daring souls you can literally stand on top of the falls
from Devil’s Pool, though from here your perspective is narrowed.
The town of Victoria Falls was built for tourists, so it’s easily walkable and located
right next to the entrance to the Falls. It has a natural African bush beauty.
Livingstone is an attractive town with a relaxed ambience and a proud, historic air.
Since the town of Victoria Falls was the main tourist centre for so many years, Living-
stone feels more authentic, perhaps because locals earn their livelihood through means
other than tourism. Livingstone is bustling with travellers year round, though the town is
fairly spread out, and is located 11km from the falls.
VVd
IcIceT
TOTOOU US$255 for a full day, which includes beer, Low-water (open) season is between
RIA fARIA fAR: VIc fZfuoarem lm abonirade tirn(a%fnos.3f2e7r4s8. 9G; ewt winw .tzoaumcbhe zwifiisthhin Ag.ncogmle) Jttwhueley eb nae nsrtda tp imimdised 1-fF oaern brdrau f1at9irn,y gc .oa Dvnedar yiin stg r icpao snd rsiuisdtnae nrbecede-
LLT
LLO of around 25km. The river will usually
s s RIA fALL ACTIVIT IhhHnooodrursurseslegb ce aRo csiikntd aainalroog nubgint d tho $ef U ZwSai9mld0lb, iaefenz id.s pRfuoidltlte-idsn agfyo rftr r2oip½ms cdOlevopHesereann lfifdog-/irhnf utgi tl also-n dn‘oda fty fhm tesruie prlaatssii dconoan psy’ t aa jatartboueounrunntts d fU o cSAra $npt1h r2aiel0l /sy/Moe1 3aab0rye..,
s IES A for experienced riders are US$145. arranged.
CT Jet Boats Other options include riverboard-
IV Power straight into whirlpools! This hair- ing, which is basically lying on a boogie
IT raising trip costs US$97, and is combined board and careering down the rapids for
IES with a cable-car ride down into the Batoka US$135/150 for a half/full day. The best time
Gorge. of year for riverboarding is February to June.
A rafting/riverboarding combo is available,
Quad biking US$165.
Discover the spectacular landscape around
River Cruises
Livingstone, Zambia and the Batoka Gorge,
spotting wildlife as you go on all-terrain River cruises along the Zambezi range from
quad bikes. Trips vary from ecotrail riding civilised jaunts on the grand African Queen
at Batoka Land to longer-range cultural to all-you-can-drink sunset booze cruises.
trips in the African bush. Trips are 1 hour Prices range from US$30 to US$60. Great
(US$80) or 2½ hours (US$150). for spotting wildlife, though some tourists
get just as much enjoyment out of the bot-
Rafting tomless drinks. Highly recommended.
This is one of the best white-water rafting
Scenic Flights
destinations in the world, both for experi-
enced rafters and newbies. Rafting can be Just when you thought the falls couldn’t get
done on either side of the Zambezi, in Zim any more spectacular, discover the ‘flight of
or Zam, and fills up between mid-February angels’ helicopter ride that flies you right
and July, high-water season. In the river by the drama for the undisputed best views
below Vic Falls you’ll find Grade 5 rapids – available. Rides aren’t cheap, but it’s worth it.
very long with huge drops and big kicks, Zambezi Helicopter Company (www.shear
and not for the faint-hearted. In high- watervictoriafalls.com/helicopters; flights 13/25
water season, day trips move downstream mins US$130/250, plus US$10 park entry fee) in
from rapids 11 to 24, covering a distance of Zimbabwe and United Air Charter (%213
around 18km.
537
323095; www.uaczam.com; Baobab Ridge, Living- www.shearwatervictoriafalls.com/safaris), a 4000-
stone) in Zambia both offer flights. hectare private reserve run by Shearwaters.
Another option is motorised hang-gliders, Here you can track the Big Five on a game
which also offer fabulous aerial views, and drive (US$90), where apparently you stand
the pilot will take pictures for you with a a 97% (to be precise) chance of encountering
camera fixed to the wing. It costs US$140 for a black rhino.
15 minutes over the falls. You can travel further afield, with opera-
tors arranging day trips to Chobe National
Steam-train Journeys
Park (see p54) in Botswana for US$170
To take in the romance of yesteryear, book
(excluding visas). It’s only a one-hour drive
yourself a ride on a historical steam train.
from Victoria Falls, and includes a breakfast
On the Zimbabwe side there is the 1953
boat cruise, a game drive in Chobe National
class 14A Garratt steam train through Vic-
Park, lunch and transfer back to Victoria
toria Falls Steam Train Co (%13 42912; www.
Falls by 5pm. Wildlife viewing is excellent:
steamtraincompany.com; incl drinks US$40, incl
lions, elephants, wild dogs, cheetahs, buffa-
dinner from US$75), that will take you over the
loes and plenty of antelopes.
iconic bridge at sunset or through the Zam-
Hwange National Park (admission per day
bezi National Park with either a full dinner
US$15; habout 6am-6pm) in Zimbabwe is the VVd
or gourmet canapes and unlimited drinks. other option, with one of the largest number IcIceT
Egianrevcetetr niean dligsfio by alodeluo a’nirdlegyr a nvmtoointa tb tahoogeofe k sietttrdsaa tmoidon en tpar aittprorsti pu w( rioeatn’.ts ce wTh wh oterahtryhee/ oa Zrfi opeulleinnpdeh Ua&nS tS$s2l iin5d0 et.hse world. A day trip will cost TORIA fATORIA fAOUR: VIc
return US$15/30) that head over the bridge Glide at 106km/h along a zipline (single/tan- LLT
LLO
aonpdti ownh (iUchS $a4l0so). have a drinks and canapes dfreomm UonS$e 6c6o/u1n0t5r)y, otor asonaort hleikre ( far osmup Zeirmhe rtoo s s RIA 8
In Zambia the Royal Livingstone Ex- Zam) on the ‘bridge slide’ as you whiz over fA
press (%213 323232; www.royal-livingstone -exp Batoka Gorge (single/tandem US$35/50). L
L
ress.com; Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd, Livingstone; incl din- Other similar options are flying-fox rides s
ner & drinks US$170; hWed & Sat) takes you (US$40). IN
on a 3½-hour ride including five-course FO
dinner and drinks on a 1922 10th-class 8 Information R
M
steam engine that will chug you through Tourist Information A
T
Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park on plush Hands down the best independent advice is from IO
leather couches. Backpackers Bazaar (p548) in the town of Victo- N
ria Falls, run by the passionate owner, Joy, who
Wildlife Safaris
is a wealth of all info and advice for Vic Falls and
There are plenty of options for wildlife
beyond. In Livingstone, the folks at Jollyboys
watching in the area, both in the nearby
Backpackers (p539) are also extremely knowl-
national parks and private game reserves, edgeable on all the latest happenings. Both are
or further afield. Both guided walks and good places to book activities and onward travel.
jeep safaris are available in the parks on
both sides of the border. At Mosi-oa-Tunya Travel & Adventure Companies
Game Park (wildlife sanctuary admission US$10; With activities and prices standardised across
hwildlife sanctuary 6am-6pm) in Zambia, the board, all bookings can conveniently be
there’s a chance to see white rhinos, while arranged through backpacker accommodation
the Zambezi National Park in Zimbabwe and big hotels.
has a small population of lions. Walks cost You can also go directly to the tour operators.
around US$70, and drives US$50 to US$90. The main ones in Zimbabwe are Wild Horizons
(%0712-213721, 13 42013; www.wildhorizons.
There are also dusk, dawn or night wild-
co.za; 310 Parkway Dr) and Shearwater (%13
life drives (US$50 to US$90). River safaris
44471; www.shearwatervictoriafalls.com;
(US$30) along the Zambezi River are anoth-
Parkway Dr). In Zambia try Safari Par Excel-
er popular way to see various wildlife includ-
lence (%213 320606; www.safpar.net) and
ing elephants, hippos and plenty of birdlife. Livingstone’s Adventure (%213 323587; www.
Another convenient option, only 15km livingstonesadventure.com) both in Livingstone.
from Victoria Falls town, is the Victoria All cover activities on either side.
Falls Private Game Reserve (%44471;
538
VISAS
You will need a visa to cross sides between Zim and Zam. These are available at the
border crossings, open from around 7am to 10pm. Note that you can’t get multi-entry
visas at these crossing; in most cases you need to apply at the embassy in your home
country before travelling.
Crossing into Zambia, a day visit costs US$20 for 24 hours, a single-entry visa costs
US$50 and double entry is US$80.
Crossing into Zimbabwe, a single-entry visa costs US$30 for most nationalities
(US$55 for British/Irish, US$75 for Canadian). Double entry is US$45 for most nation-
alities (US$75 for British/Irish, and unavailable for Canadians).
ZAMBIA tor information centre, which has modest
displays on local fauna, geology and culture.
% 260
From the centre, a network of paths leads
As Zambia continues to ride the wave of
through thick vegetation to various view-
VVd tourism generated by the falls, it manages to
IcIceT keep itself grounded, offering a wonderfully points. You can walk upstream along a path
TTO free of fences – and warning notices (so take
OOU low-key destination that has been recog-
RIA fARIA fAR: VIc nNwiaastteiedor nfarsso nsuWt csohtrr; laidtd ’sd lcTiono-ugh rotihssmte o ffa ltAlhsse sc e2om0n1tb3iln yUu. nesiTt hietdes cswmaarroedo!)st h–thl yte ot l hiwpro aoutfcg hthh terho feca klZlssa .amndbe lzitit lwe aistelarns dgsl itdoe-
LLLLTO rapid development and is fast becoming one For close-up views of the Eastern Cata-
s s RIA fALLZAMBIASIGHTS oerf nt hAef rmicoas.t exclusive destinations in South- rhtbhauarcitortt-ru,w egsnehsto ttsihcnwaiginlr)lg lei dnwb gae tlackhlt eos uactdKhrsoen so isffh eam tihrEi-esrdt a,g fitoseoio.n tagbI frs i(hdategnheeder,
s & ACLIV L% 0i2v13ingstone & Around wbea tterre aiste ldo wto, o ar mthaeg wniinfidce ins tf avvieowur aobf lteh, ey ofaul’llsl
TIVING Set 11km away from Victoria Falls, the re- awsi swe,e lylo ausr tvhisei oyna w(annindg y aobuyrs cs lobtehloews). wOitlhl ebre-
ITIESSTON lreaollxleeer dso ftn oaow bt naoc onkflp yLa citvkoii nneggxs pmteoreniceec nahc.a eIs t t tahatekt reafnac ltolssn ,t rbtahuvet- da rsetneechpe tdra bcyk stpor athy.e T bhaennk ys oouf cthane gwraelakt dZoawmn-
E bezi to see the huge whirlpool called the
& A ttoo wtanc kisl en otht em tuhcrhil ltino gl oaodkv eant,t buuret istc eisn ae. sTahfee, Boiling Pot. Watch out for cheeky baboons.
R The park is open again in the evenings
O lively place with some fantastic restaurants. during (and just before and after) a full
U Those looking for a more scenic and luxuri-
N moon in order to see the amazing lunar
D ous experience can treat themselves to the
rainbow. The tickets cost an extra ZMW51 –
natural setting along the Zambezi River at
hours of operation vary, so inquire through
any number of plush lodges with river and
your accommodation.
wildlife views.
The town centres itself around one main o
road, Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd, 11km from the en- Livingstone Island VIEWPOINT
trance to the falls. Several establishments One of the most thrilling experiences not
are set right on the Zambezi River, but only at the falls, but in Africa, is the hair-
most of the action is set a bit back from the raising journey to Livingstone Island. Here
waterfront. you will bathe in Devil’s Pool – nature’s ulti-
mate infinity pool, set directly on the edge of
1
Sights & Activities the raging drama of Victoria Falls. You can
leap into the pool and then poke your head
o
Victoria Falls World Heritage over the edge to get an extraordinary view of
National Monument Site WATERFALL the 100m drop.
(admission ZMW103.5; h6am-6pm) This is what Livingstone Island is in the middle of the
you’re here for, the mighty Victoria Falls. It’s Zambezi River, located at the top of the falls,
a part of the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, and here you’ll see a plaque marking the
11km outside town before the Zambia bor- spot where David Livingstone first sighted
der crossing; a path here leads to the visi- the falls. The island is accessed via boat, and
539
prices include either breakfast (ZMW333), is divided into five sections covering archae-
lunch (ZMW615) or high tea (ZMW486). ology, history, ethnography, natural history
When the water is low, you’re able to access and art, and is highlighted by Tonga ritual
it via walking or swimming across, but a artefacts, a life-sized model African village,
guide is compulsory. Note that access to the a collection of David Livingstone memora-
island is closed from around March to May bilia and historic maps dating back to 1690.
when the water levels are too high. 4
Sleeping
Mosi-oa-Tunya Game Park WILDLIFE RESERVE
(admission US$10; h6am-6pm) The other part TOWN CENTRE
of the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park is up- o
river from the falls, and only 3km southwest Jollyboys Backpackers BACKPACKERS $
of Livingstone. The tiny wildlife sanctuary (%324229; www.backpackzambia.com; 34 Kanyanta
has a surprising range of animals including Rd; campsite/dm/r ZMW40/50/205; iWs) The
rhinos, zebras, giraffes, buffaloes, elephants British and Canadian owners of Jollyboys
and antelopes. It’s most famous for tracking know exactly what backpackers want, and it
white rhinos on foot. Walks cost ZMW435 is wildly popular for a good reason. They have
per person, for groups of up to eight. kept the needs of independent travellers at
Livingstone Museum MUSEUM tchelel efonrte cforoffneet, tforo tmhe t shpea sruknliknegn p looouln, cghe eaanpd r eexs-- VIcTVIcTdeTO
(Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd; admission ZMW25; h9am- taurant-bar and clean bright rooms. Things OOU
4.30pm) The excellent Livingstone Museum can get a bit hectic in the evenings, so they’ve RIA fARIA fAR: VIc
LLT
LIVINGSTONE – THE MAN, THE MYTH, THE LEGEND LsLsOR
David Livingstone is one of a few European explorers who is still revered by modern-day IA fZAMSLE
Aliffer’isc amniss.s Hioisn lteog eenndd athrye esxlapvloei ttsra odne t whea sc ovenrtyin reenatl b(aonrdde url ttihmea rteealylm v eorfy f iscuticocne,s tshfouul)g.h his ALLsBIAEPIN
Born into rural poverty in the south of Scotland on 19 March 1813, Livingstone worked GL
in London for several years before being ordained as a missionary in 1840. The following IV
year he arrived in Bechuanaland (now Botswana) and began travelling inland, looking IN
G
for converts and seeking to end the slave trade. S
As early as 1842 Livingstone had already become the first European to penetrate TO
the northern reaches of the Kalahari. For the next several years he explored the African N
E
interior with the purpose of opening up trade routes and establishing missions. In 1854 &
Livingstone discovered a route to the Atlantic coast, and arrived in present-day Luanda. A
However, his most famous discovery occurred in 1855 when he first set eyes on Victoria R
O
Falls during his epic boat journey down the Zambezi River. Livingstone returned to Brit- U
N
ain a national hero, and recounted his travels in the 1857 publication Missionary Travels D
and Researches in South Africa.
In 1858 Livingstone returned to Africa as the head of the ‘Zambezi Expedition’, a
government-funded venture that aimed to identify natural resource reserves in the re-
gion. Unfortunately, the expedition ended when a previously unexplored section of the
Zambezi turned out to be unnavigable.
In 1869 Livingstone reached Lake Tanganyika despite failing health, though several of
his followers abandoned the expedition en route. These desertions were headline news
in Britain, sparking rumours regarding Livingstone’s health and sanity. In response to
the growing mystery surrounding Livingstone’s whereabouts, the New York Herald ar-
ranged a publicity stunt by sending journalist Henry Morton Stanley to find Livingstone.
After arriving in Zanzibar and setting out with nearly 200 porters, Stanley finally
found Livingstone on 10 November 1871 in Ujiji near Lake Tanganyika and famously
greeted him with the line ‘Dr Livingstone, I presume?’.
Although Stanley urged him to leave the continent, Livingstone was determined to
find the source of the Nile, and penetrated deeper into the continent than any European
prior. On 1 May 1873 Livingstone died from malaria and dysentery near Lake Bangweula
in present-day Zambia. His body was carried for thousands of kilometres by his attend-
ants, and now lies in the ground at Westminster Abbey in London.
540
Livingstone e#0 500m
0 0.25miles
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A B C D
opened up the quieter Jollyboys Camp (Chi- with/without bathroom ZMW307/205; aiWs)
pembi Rd) guesthouse nearby, in Chipembi Rd, Once a backpacker institution, things have
to suit couples and families. been spruced up here into a guesthouse full
of upmarket touches: free internet and wi-fi,
Fawlty Towers BACKPACKERS, LODGE $$ shady lawns, a great pool and some of the
(%323432; www.adventure-africa.com; 216 Mosi-
nicest and most spacious dorms we’ve seen.
oa-Tunya Rd; campsite/dm/tr ZMW40/76/215, d
No Basil or Manuel in sight.
541
Livingstone
æSights ûDrinking
1LivingstoneMuseum..............................B3 12FezBar......................................................B5
ØActivities,Courses&Tours þShopping
2RoyalLivingstoneExpress.....................B6 13MukuniCrafts..........................................C2
ÿSleeping ïInformation
3FawltyTowers.........................................B4 14BarclaysBank..........................................C3
4JollyboysBackpackers..........................B3 15LivingstoneGeneralHospital.................B2
5JollyboysCamp.......................................D3 16Stanbic......................................................B4
6LivingstoneBackpackers......................C4 17StandardCharteredBank......................C3
7Olga'sGuesthouse..................................C4 18TouristCentre..........................................B3
8ZigZag.......................................................B6
ïTransport
úEating 19Combi(Minibus)Stop............................C3
9CafeZambezi..........................................B5 20 CRHoldings(CRCarriers).....................C3
VVd
Olga'sItalianCorner........................(see7) 21 Hemingways............................................A3 IcIceT
10Spot..........................................................B5 22MazhanduFamilyBus TTO
11Wonderbake............................................C3 Services.................................................C3 ORORUR
ZigZag................................................(see8) 23ShalomBus..............................................C3 IA fAIA fA: VIc
LLT
ZigZag GUESTHOUSE $$ ZAMBEZI RIVERFRONT LsLsOR
(T%un3ya2 2R8d1;4 ;s /wd wZwM.Wzig2z8a0g/z4a1m0b; ipa.caomi; Wofsf M) oDsio-ona’t- Mfroomst Lpirviicnegss toinncel uadned mreesaelrsv aatniodn st raarne srfeercs- IA fZAMSLE
bptieaq rukde eeBcxet&eivBrei odwr ;i tbthhy elo trvhoieon mgm st oohuteecrlh-eme aser eetht msr-ocouargreah bvooaunut--. oommenSdteadn.ley Safari Lodge LODGE $$$ ALLs BIAEPINGL
Run by a friendly Scottish and Namibian (%i n South Africa 27-72-170 8879; www.stanley IV
couple, the lovely swimming pool, great safaris.com; per person with full board and activi- IN
G
restaurant and playground for kids give it a ties from ZMW2,203; iWs) Intimate and in- S
classic holiday feel. dulgent, Stanley is a 10km drive from the TO
falls in a peaceful spot surrounded by mo- N
S E
Olga’s Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $$ pane forest. Rooms are as plush as can be &
(%324160; www.olgasproject.com; cnr Mosi-oa- expected at these prices; the standouts are A
R
Tunya & Nakatindi Rds; s/d/f ZMW256/358/460; the open-air suites where you can soak up O
aW) If you need a lie down after gorging at nature from your own private plunge pool. UN
Olga’s Italian Corner restaurant, Olga’s has When you tire of that, curl up by the fire in D
it covered. Clean, spacious rooms with cool the open-air lounge. Rates are all-inclusive.
tiled floors, teak furniture and slick bath-
rooms are just a few feet away. Profits go David Livingstone LODGE $$$
(%324601; www.thedavidlivingstone.com; River Side
towards helping an organisation supporting
Dr, Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park; s/d incl breakfast
local youth.
& activities ZMW1,745/2,675; Ws) The newest
Livingstone Backpackers BACKPACKERS $ addition to Livingstone’s luxury hotels: all
(%324730; www.livingstonebackpackers.com; 559 rooms have river views, Rhodesian teak fur-
Mokambo Rd; campsite/dm ZMW40/50; Ws) niture, concertina doors, four-poster beds
Resembling the Big Brother household, this and stand-alone bathtubs looking out to
place can be a bit ‘party central’, particularly the water. It’s set within the national park,
when the Gen Y volunteer brigade is on holi- hippos honk around at night, and the deck-
day. You’ll find them lounging by the pool ing and bar around the riverfront infinity
or in the sandy outdoor cabana, swinging pool is a wonderful spot for a sundowner.
in hammocks or tackling the rock-climbing It’s located halfway between Livingstone
wall! There is also a hot tub, open-air kitch- and the falls.
en and living room.