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صمحلا Hummus סומוח صمحلا ON THE HUMMUS ROUTE A JOURNEY BETWEEN CITIES, PEOPLE, AND DREAMS Hummus ARIEL ROSENTHAL ORLY PELI-BRONSHTEIN DAN ALEXANDER סומוח صمحلا Ariel Rosenthal Hummus Orly Peli-Bronshtein סומוח Dan Alexander M A N Y T H A N K S TO O U R G LO B A L T E A M O F C O N T R I B U TO R S F O R S H A R I N G T H E I R LOV E O F H U M M U S authors anonymous elia kahvedjian avi s. ravitzki Ariel Rosenthal Photographer; Damascus Late founder of the Photo Elia photo shop Artist; Périgord Orly Peli-Bronshtein and legendary photographer; Jerusalem Dan Alexander mohammed asad claudia roden Photographer; Gaza joudie kalla Food researcher, cultural anthropologist, initiator and vision Chef, food consultant, and author; London and author; London Ariel Rosenthal nof atamna-ismaeel Chef, food festival director; Kafr Qara arin abu-hamid kurdi nimrod saunders concept, chief editor, and design Chef and restaurateur; Acre Photographer; Givatayim Dan Alexander yosef baballah Chef and restaurateur; Umm al-Fahm david loftus hind tahboub recipes and culinary editor Photographer; London Chef; Paris Orly Peli-Bronshtein dr. on barak Historian, lecturer, and author; Tel Aviv felix lupa sami tamimi graphic design and art direction Photographer; Tel Aviv Chef, restaurateur, and author; London Dan Alexander & Co. felipe romero beltrán itzik luzon brandon tauszik studio director Photographer; Bogotá Restaurateur; Jaffa Photographer and filmmaker; California Maya Shitrit Shwartz josh berer farouk mardam-bey mousa tawfiq english translation Calligrapher and craftsman; Historian, food researcher, author, and Journalist and researcher; Paris and Gaza Nomi Abeliovich Washington D.C. publisher; Paris english text editor yaron brener karim mostafa Gabriella Gershenson Photographer; Tel Aviv Photographer; Beirut special thanks to charles constantine mohammad orfali Karim Haidar, Hind Tahboub, Adeena Sussman, Photographer; Paris and Beirut Syrian chef, restaurateur, and culinary Linda Mady, Iris Gelbart expert; Dubai dr. yahya diwer, md Doctor and photographer; Alexandria eilon paz Photographer; New York prof. liora gvion Sociologist, lecturer, and author; Tel Aviv shai peri Photographer; Kiryat Ono magica karim haidar Chef, restaurateur, and founder of the anna-marie ravitzki Academy of Arab Cuisine; Paris Philosopher, poet, and artist; Périgord and Paris Celebratory first edition, 2019 Printed in the Middle East • Both the metric and USCS measurements are included in © All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, the recipes, for your onvenience. When following a recipe, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any we recommend working with one of these systems only. means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without • All spoon measurements are level, unless stated otherwise. the prior permission of the authors. A teaspoon is 5 millimeters and a tablespoon is 15 millimeters. • For hummus dip or falafel, we recommend first referring to www.hummusroute.com the step-by-step recipes on pages 178-9 and 184-5. Hummus TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S JAFFA MEMORIES FROM MY MOTHER’S KITCHEN by Joudie Kalla ........ 115 HUMMUS BIL SHATTA Hummus with Hot Peppers by Joudie Kalla ............ 117 MSABAHA Swimming Chickpeas. ............................................. 118 MESHULASH Triple Hummus à la Abu Hassan ................................. 120 SARDINE FALAFEL. .................................................... 122 A PALESTINIAN, A LEBANESE, AND AN ISRAELI WALK INTO WHITE FAVA BEAN HUMMUS by Itzik Luzon. .......................... 123 A BAR by Dan Alexander ....................................................... 13 PITA POCKETS ......................................................... 124 DEFINITION: CICER, THE ORIGIN OF CHICKPEA .............. 17 A BRIEF HISTORY OF HUMMUS by Orly Peli-Bronshtein. ............... 129 CHICKPEAS ACROSS THE GLOBE .................................... 19 THE TALE OF MULLAH NASREDDIN AND HIS COAT .......... 139 CAIRO TEL AVIV THE WANDERING KITCHEN by Claudia Roden ........................... 33 HUMMUS AND ME – IT’S PERSONAL by Ariel Rosenthal ............. 167 THE ROLLING FALAFEL BALL by Dr. On Barak .......................... 43 COOKED CHICKPEAS FOR HUMMUS by Ariel Rosenthal .............. 176 TA’AMIYA Fava Bean Falafel by Claudia Roden. ................................... 48 COOKED CHICKPEAS FOR SALADS AND STEWS by Ariel Rosenthal 176 KOSHARY Chickpeas, Lentils, and Rice with Spicy Tomato Sauce . .................... 50 HUMMUS HAKOSEM by Ariel Rosenthal ................................... 178 FERAKH BEL HUMMUS Chicken and Chickpea Casserole by Claudia Roden ....... 52 HARISSA HAKOSEM by Ariel Rosenthal. ................................... 180 HALABESSA Tomato-Chickpea Soup. ........................................... 54 FRIED EGGPLANT HAKOSEM by Ariel Rosenthal. ....................... 182 DUKKAH CRACKERS. .................................................... 56 FALAFEL HAKOSEM by Ariel Rosenthal. ................................... 184 MOROCCAN FISH HAKOSEM by Ariel Rosenthal ........................ 186 RICE WITH CARAMELIZED ONIONS HAKOSEM by Ariel Rosenthal . 188 GAZ A PICKLED CARROTS AND CABBAGE by Ariel Rosenthal ................ 190 A POOR MAN’S KEBAB by Mousa Tawfiq ................................... 75 CHICKPEA TO COOK a Poem by Rumi. ..................................... 81 JERUSALEM HUMMUS BI TAHINE Hummus with Tahini.................................. 82 ONION-STUFFED FALAFEL. ........................................... 84 CHICKPEAS OF THE GODS .......................................... 219 DILL FALAFEL. ........................................................... 86 MY CURIOSITY FOR FOOD by Sami Tamimi ............................ 221 CHICKPEA CONFIT. ..................................................... 87 THE SWEETEST CHICKPEA OF ALL Kdaameh. ...................... 223 KASHK SOUP WITH CHICKPEAS AND RICE. ....................... 89 TELL ME HOW YOU EAT YOUR HUMMUS, AND I WILL TELL CHICKPEA AND VEAL CASSEROLE WITH SHATTA PEPPERS ... 90 YOU WHO YOU ARE by Prof. Liora Gvion. ................................. 225 MAFTOUL Palestinian Couscous. ............................................... 91 A HUMMUS NARRATIVE by Hind Tahboub. .............................. 231 ANGELS IN GAZA by Anna-Marie Ravitzki. ................................... 93 CHICKPEAS FOR THE FIRST-BORN. ............................... 233 Table of Contents Hummus ARBES Salt-and-Pepper Chickpeas. ............................................. 237 BEIRUT LABLABI Spicy Chickpeas. ................................................... 238 QEDREH KHALILIYEH The Hebronite Pot by Hind Tahboub ................. 239 HUMMUS WITHOUT BORDERS by Karim Haidar. ...................... 349 LAMB-STUFFED FALAFEL. ........................................... 240 CHICKPEAS CAN CHANGE THE WORLD. ......................... 353 BAJIA Yemenite Falafel. ...................................................... 242 HUMMUS WITH SQUID INK AND BOTTARGA by Karim Haidar ..... 354 ROASTED SQUASH WITH TAHINI YOGURT, FRIED CHICKPEAS, FATTET HUMMUS Crispy Pita Layered with Chickpeas, Yogurt, and Tahini ........ 355 AND GREEN CHILE SALSA by Sami Tamimi. ............................ 244 BEANS FIT FOR A KING. ............................................. 357 QUDSIYEH Hummus with Ful Medames and Chickpeas by Hind Tahboub. ........... 245 FATAYER Chickpea and Wild Spinach Pies. ..................................... 358 HAMIN SHPONDRA Overnight Short-Rib, Potato, and Chickpea Casserole. ....... 246 MAGHMOUR Vegetarian Moussaka. .......................................... 359 SHULBATA Bulgur Pilaf with Chickpeas ....................................... 360 BALILA Garlic-Cumin Chickpeas .............................................. 361 NAZ ARETH HUMMUS BEIRUTI. .................................................... 362 THE PREGNANT CHICKPEA ......................................... 269 THE JOY OF GROWING CHICKPEAS by Nof Atamna-Ismaeel. .......... 271 DAMASCUS MIRACLE WATER Aquafaba .............................................. 275 FALAFEL B’AJIN Vegetarian Lahmajun. ..................................... 276 FRIED CHICKPEAS WITH BAHARAT. .............................. 376 FRESH ZA’ATAR FALAFEL. ........................................... 277 THE ONLY IMPORTANT QUESTION TO ASK by Farouk Mardam-Bey .. 383 WARM GALILEAN HUMMUS. ......................................... 279 HUMMUS HAS ITS MEMORIES by Mohammad Orfali. ................... 385 CHOPPED VEGETABLE SALAD ...................................... 280 A THOUSAND–YEAR–OLD HANGOVER CURE. ................... 389 TAHINI SAUCE ......................................................... 281 BURGHOL BI DFINE Chickpea, Bulgur, and Carrot Stew by Farouk Mardam-Bey ..... 390 BAQDONSIYA Green Tahini. ............................................... 281 HUMMUS BIL LAHMEH Hummus with Buttered Lamb by Mohammad Orfali ...... 391 FALAFEL SHAMI Green Falafel Patties with Baharat Spice ...................... 392 FRIED CHICKPEA SAMBUSAS ....................................... 393 ACRE YAKHNI Lamb and Chickpea Stew. ............................................ 394 MAHSHI SIYAMI Zucchini Stuffed with Rice and Chickpeas .................... 395 AN ANCIENT SHOPPING LIST. ..................................... 305 KIBBEH HEMO Stuffed Semolina Dumplings in Chickpea Soup .................. 396 THE HUMMUS HARVEST ............................................. 311 THE GOLDEN CHICKPEA ............................................ 401 HUMMUS ALAKAWI by Yosef Baballah ..................................... 312 FALAFEL ALAKAWI by Yosef Baballah. ..................................... 313 HUMMUS EL ABED by Arin Abu-Hamid Kurdi. .............................. 314 MAKHLUTA Hummus with Ful Medames, Chickpeas, and Olive Oil . ............... 316 SAJ PITA ................................................................. 318 MNAZZALEH Eggplant, Bell Pepper, and Chickpea Stew ......................... 319 Hummus A PA L E S T I N I A N , A L E B A N E S E , A N D A N I S R A E L I WA L K I N TO A B A R Dan Alexander A Palestinian, a Lebanese, and an Israeli walk into a bar… this is not the beginning of a joke; this is the story of how Ariel and I met Hind, a Palestinian chef, and Karim, a French chef originally from Lebanon, in a Parisian bar that is a renowned institution overlooking the Louvre Museum. We were excited and tense, each of us burdened with a baggage of sorts mostly made up of prejudice. It was a blind date between cultures and, as blind dates go, the initial chatter, broken language, insecurities, and all other patterns of reality were but simple attempts to break the ice between us, right there and then around our table at 39 rue de l'Amiral de Coligny, not far from the Mona Lisa and all that stands for French elegance and restraint. We waited for our second round of martinis. Suddenly, Ariel presented a gift – a tub of tahini that he brought especially from Nazareth. In an instance the restraint we may have felt, our wobbly words, and all of the alcohol fumes around us simply evaporated into thin air in the very presence of this soulful tub. Then, in a flash and without any warning, things heated up Middle Eastern style with our tempers soaring up for the real battle: What is the right amount of tahini for making hummus. Karim cried “Almost none!” Ariel jumped back “In large amounts, always!” and words turned to shouts really quickly. But the Mona Lisa fluttered her eyelids to remind us where we all were, so we just burst out laughing, realizing that in this one blazing moment shared by us passionate, happy people joined by one common identity, a real romance had just sparked, because, in the end of it all, it is all about humanity. Since then we have met many times, for precious moments of partners that travel on a utopian journey, filled with friendships, recipes, and dreams. This magical joint journey of ours follows the Hummus Route, an imaginary route that I envisioned in my mind’s eye between places, people, and dreams, across the hummus capitals of the Middle East, from Cairo all the way up to 13 Preface Hummus Damascus, via Gaza, Jaffa, Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Nazareth, Acre, and Beirut. It On our part, the blessing that this chickpea of pure gold has bestowed on us, is is a road of revelation that runs in a landscape of yearning, sesame seeds, joy, the very privilege of enriching our lives with magical moments of gold, when our pain, thoughts, tears, and laughter, orbiting around the rediscovery of one of hearts beat together as one. Within the folds of this book, we too have sprinkled the world’s most ancient raw materials, which goes far beyond borders and into many golden grains to be discovered by each of our readers, hoping to enrich the realms of diverse cultures in the history of mankind. their life with dreams and flavors forever. With the story of the chickpea we can find the story of us all, from the tables of I wish the warmest thank you to Orly and Ariel, and all those travelers who kings, sultans, secret alleyways in age-old marketplaces, and ancient manuscripts, shared this journey with us into a new future. Our eyes have been opened to the food stalls of bustling streets and hushed high-end restaurants. On this as our hearts have embraced and recognized that in the end of it all, it is all journey, we raised our heads from the pita pocket and the plate, to find ourselves about humanity. eager to travel on this old-new road, between these cities, as we shared our dreams, lots of hummus and falafel, and one bright new world for all, because this appetite, the tastes, and these huge amounts of tahini culminate into the unity of a virtue, the talking and listening of a dialogue, because in the end of Dan Alexander is an international award-winning designer and thought leader, the founder it all, it is all about humanity. and creative director of Dan Alexander & Co., an innovation, design, and branding lab headquartered in Paris. Dan collaborates with opinion leaders and creatives worldwide, We also discovered that hummus is a culture in its own right, opening up a space to intercept technology, philosophy, and design. His publication Seafoodpedia won the that constantly seeks an identity, and our journey uncovered glorious culinary prestigious Gourmand International Cookbook Award. He lives and works in Paris and in the Périgord region in the South of France. traditions of past and present. Hummus has reinvented itself over and over again, always asking to be rediscovered, in every moment, anew. While the chickpea retains its identity, it offers us a fresh and unfamiliar tradition of a whole new social order. For us, a definition of an identity was unveiled, which relies on the past but faces the future with a big smile, because chickpeas dissolve any fixed concept by telling us that hummus is made with love, or not made at all. And this river of time flowing through our journey, has engulfed us into this space of a void, in an infinite dialogue of flavors and the endeared closeness of friendships. Because, in the end, it is all about humanity, and food can only bring hearts closer together. In our wanderings, we came across one particularly beautiful legend. It tells of a gold-hearted sultan who treated the entire village to a royal feast, once every year. Among the countless beverages and dishes set before his guests, he served a rice and lamb stew speckled with chickpeas. Inside this dish, the sultan would hide one chickpea made of pure gold. The guest that found this lucky grain in their serving was crowned the winner, and lavishly rewarded with riches and treasures for life. 14 15 Hummus D E F I N I T I O N : C I C E R , T H E O R I G I N O F C H I C K P E A c h i c k p e a A somewhat spherical, irregular-shaped pea-like seed of a legume plant (pulse) native to the Mediterranean region. It has a buff color, firm texture, and nutty flavor. It is used in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisines in soups, stews, and salads, and can be roasted and eaten as a snack. Chickpea, or cicer in Latin, is also known as cece (ceci in plural), garbanzo bean, and bengal gram. This ancient pulse was domesticated 7,000 years ago, and is the basic ingredient for hummus and falafel dishes. Origin of the name: Early eighteenth century (earlier as chiche-pease), from late Middle English chiche (from Old French chiche, cice, from Latin cicer). h u m m u s This word, also spelled humus, houmous, and houmus, is both Arabic and Hebrew for chickpea. It is also the name of the thick Middle Eastern purée made of mashed chickpeas, tahini (sesame paste), olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, and other spices, used as a sandwich filling, spread, or dip. g a r b a n z o The origin of this name for chickpea, also called a garbanzo bean, is from mid- eighteenth-century Spanish – originally from Basque garbantzu, meaning dry (gartau) Cicer Sativum, also known as and seed (antzu), and garavance, from the edible plant calavance. Cicer Arietinum, or chickpea. c i c e r a r i e t i n u m Hortus Romanus Juxta Systema Tournefortianum Paulo Strictius The chickpea plant species, of the pea family Fabaceae. Cicer was the classical Latin Distributus, by Giorgio Bonelli name for chickpea, and arietinum means ram’s head, in reference to the pea’s shape. (1772-1793). The New York Public Library, Digital Collections This Latin name is taken from the Cicero family’s common crop, and the cognomen of the Roman statesman and orator Marcus Tullius Cicero, as recorded by Pliny. Columella was the first author to use the word arietinum in reference to the seed. Researchers claim the word cicer derives from the Semitic kikar, which means round. 17 Hummus C H I C K P E A S AC RO S S T H E G LO B E a m h a r i c h i n d i ሽምብራ / Shimbra चना / Chana a r a b i c i ta l i a n صمحلا / Hummus, Hhimmass, Cece Malana, Alhams (Ancient Arabic: Hallaru, Himmis) j a pa n e s e ヒヨコマメ / Hiyokomame c h i n e s e 鹰嘴豆 / Ying Zui Dou, m a l ay Ji Tou Dou Katjang Arab, Katjang Kuda e n g l i s h p o r t u g u e s e Bengal Gram, Chickpea, Grão, Grão de Bico, Gravanço Garbanzo Bean r u s s i a n f r e n c h нут / Noot Pois Chiche s pa n i s h g e r m a n Garbanzo Kichererbse s w e d i s h h e b r e w Kikärt סומוח / Hummus (Ancient Hebrew: הצמח / Himtza) t u r k i s h Nochut 19