midnight haven of rest Sketch by Mrs Alec Tweedie

42 Pages·2013·3.35 MB·English

midnight haven of rest
Sketch by Mrs Alec Tweedie: frontispiece of the first edition of Through
Finland in Carts (1897), showing ‘all the necessaries and luxuries of
Finnish humble life’. Hanging between the roof beams are the round
loaves described by so many travellers. (See pp.156–7.)
No Particular Hurry
british travellers in finland
1830–1917
Tony Lurcock
‘Not being in any particular hurry, we lingered . . .’
Mrs Alec Tweedie
‘. . . what demand is there for hurry
or punctuality in places like Riehki or Teerlä?’
Rosalind Travers
Cb
editions
First published in 2013
by CB editions
146 Percy Road London w12 9ql
www.cbeditions.com
All rights reserved
© Tony Lurcock, 2013
Front cover: Victor Westerholm (1860–1919), A View at Ruissalo
(Maisema Ruissalosta), 1903. Oscar Huttunen Collection,
Kuopio Art Museum
Tony Lurcock has asserted his right
under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988
to be identified as author of this work
Printed in England by Imprint Digital, Exeter ex5 5hy
isbn 978–0–9567359–9–7
Contents
Acknowledgements vii
Place names in Swedish and Finnish viii
Maps of Finland
Swedish place names x
Finnish place names xii
Preface xv
Introduction 1
Rev. Robert Bateman Paul 25
Thomas Denman Whatley 29
Elizabeth Rigby (Lady Eastlake) 34
George Francklin Atkinson 39
S. S. Hill 45
Selina Bunbury 48
the russian war 53
Map of the Åland Islands 56
Captain Bartholomew James Sulivan 71
Colonel Charles Hamley 80
William Gerard Don, MD 82
Rev. Robert Edgar Hughes 84
Lord Dufferin 93
Selina Bunbury 99
Joseph Sturge 105
Edward Rae 111
Arthur J. Evans 123
Annie Margaret Clive-Bayley 135
Ethel Brilliana (Mrs Alec) Tweedie 146
C. J. Cutcliffe Hyne 165
Harry de Windt 180
‘Paul Waineman’ (Sylvia MacDougall) 193
Alexander MacCallam Scott 203
Rosalind Travers 207
Henry W. Nevinson 217
Sir George Renwick 219
Ernest Young 226
Charles Fillingham Coxwell 235
Epilogue 238
Appendices
1 Finnish Trains 241
2 The Priest and the Widow 242
3 The Parson and the Pig 243
4 The Finnish Prisoners in Lewes 245
Notes and References 246
Bibliography 253
Index of Places 258
Acknowledgements
Many people have given help and encouragement at different times
and in different places, some of them long ago, some far away, and
some both. In particular Silvester Mazzarella has read several versions
over the years, and has, as ever, encouraged the whole enterprise,
while on the home front Pontus has again contributed corrections,
clarifications, and many insights and suggestions.
I thank Marjetta Bell for help with Russian War details; Jonathan
Clark for producing the two maps of Finland; Larry Eldredge for de-
ciphering certain words in the Evans ms; Eva Ennis for the loan of
her precious Finland Bulletin; Tim Griggs for editing out most of my
favourite parts in the Introduction; Philip Grover, at the Pitt Rivers
Museum, for assembling all of Arthur Evans’s drawings of Finland for
me to see; Kevin Hart for making my naval terminology shipshape;
Diana Kaley for information about her grandmother Sylvia Mac-
Dougall; Bill Mead for sending me copies of useful articles; Gunnar
Nyström for information about the Julin family; Ilaria Perzia at the
Ashmolean Museum for generous help with the ms of Evans’s Journal;
Pasi Sahl berg for giving me perspectives on Finnish education; Roger
Sell for general encouragement and particular help; Katherine Turner
for explaining when ladies are women; and Angela Wilson for the
map of Åland.
I have consulted many books in the course of producing one, and
they are listed in the bibliographies. I am particularly indebted to Basil
Greenhill and Ann Gifford, The British Assault on Finland 1854–
1855: A Forgotten Naval War (1988).
Publication of this volume has been made possible by a grant from
Konstsamfundet; thanks are due to Kaj-Gustaf Bergh, and also to Karl
Grotenfelt for his help as an intermediary.
Any comments, corrections or additions would be welcomed by the
author at 9 Monmouth Road, Oxford ox1 4td, uk, or by email to
[email protected].
vii
Place names in Swedish and Finnish
Archaic Swedish spellings are in parentheses. Places which are
mentioned only once are usually translated in the text. There are
a few places, almost all in Lapland, which I have not been able
to identify. In a book of this size it has not proved possible to
provide a map which shows every small village and settlement,
but they can easily be found of the website http://kansalaisen.
karttapaikka.fi. The site recognises only Finnish names.
Björneborg Pori
Borgå (Bergo) Porvoo
Brahestad Raahe
Ekenäs (Eckness ) Tammisaari
Enare Inari
Enontekis Enontekiö
Fölisön Seurasaari
Fredrikshamn Hamina
Gamla Karleby Kokkola
Hangö Hanko
Helsingfors Helsinki
Kajana Kajaani
Kexholm Käkisalmi
Lovisa (Louisa) Loviisa
Nykarleby Uusikaarlepyy
Nyslott Savonlinna
Nystad Uusikaupunki
Pyttis Pyhtä
Raumo Rauma
Seskar Seiskari
Sibho Sibbo
viii
place names in swedish and finnish
Sordavala Sortavala
Sveaborg Suomenlinna
Tammerfors (Tamerfers) Tampere
Tavastehus Hämeenlinna
Torneå Tornio
Uleåborg Oulu
Urdiala Urjala
Vasa Vaasa
Vyborg Viipuri
Åbo Turku
Övertorneå Ylitornio
Beyond Finland
Reval Tallinn
‘Nargon’ (Nargen) Naissaar

ix
x
Map from Sylvia MacDougall [‘Paul Waineman’], A Summer
Tour in Finland, 1908, with place names in Swedish