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Marine cosmeceuticals : trends and prospects PDF

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Edited by Se-Kwon Kim CRC Press Taylor & Francis Group 6000 Broken Sound Parkway NW, Suite 300 Boca Raton, FL 33487-2742 © 2012 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC CRC Press is an imprint of Taylor & Francis Group, an Informa business No claim to original U.S. Government works Version Date: 20111012 International Standard Book Number-13: 978-1-4398-6029-8 (eBook - PDF) This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials or the consequences of their use. The authors and publishers have attempted to trace the copyright holders of all material repro- duced in this publication and apologize to copyright holders if permission to publish in this form has not been obtained. If any copyright material has not been acknowledged please write and let us know so we may rectify in any future reprint. Except as permitted under U.S. Copyright Law, no part of this book may be reprinted, reproduced, transmitted, or utilized in any form by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from the publishers. For permission to photocopy or use material electronically from this work, please access www.copyright.com (http://www.copy- right.com/) or contact the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc. (CCC), 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400. CCC is a not-for-profit organization that provides licenses and registration for a variety of users. For organizations that have been granted a photocopy license by the CCC, a separate system of payment has been arranged. 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Visit the Taylor & Francis Web site at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com and the CRC Press Web site at http://www.crcpress.com Contents Preface...............................................................................................................................................ix Editor.................................................................................................................................................xi Contributors....................................................................................................................................xiii Chapter 1 Cosmeceuticals.from.Marine.Resources:.Prospects.and.Commercial.Trends.............1 Se-Kwon Kim and Isuru Wijesekara Chapter 2 Chemical.and.Biological.Aspects.of.Marine.Cosmeceuticals....................................11 Bin Yang, Xiuping Lin, Xue-Feng Zhou, Xian-Wen Yang, and Yonghong Liu Chapter 3 Chemical.Properties.of.Chitosan.as.a.Marine.Cosmeceutical....................................39 Laura Calderón Muñoz, Elena Lecumberri Lima, Ruth Expósito Harris, María Ángeles López Mengíbar, Niuris Acosta Contreras, and Ángeles María Heras Caballero Chapter 4 Marine.Phytochemical.Compounds.and.Their.Cosmeceutical.Applications.............51 Abdul Bakrudeen Ali Ahmed and Rosna Mat Taha Chapter 5 Effect.of.Marine.Cosmeceuticals.on.the.Pigmentation.of.Skin..................................63 Sumathy Babitha and Eun-Ki Kim Chapter 6 Photoprotective.and.Cosmeceutical.Prospects.from.Marine.Origin..........................67 Ramjee Pallela and Se-Kwon Kim Chapter 7 Prospects.of.Marine.Sponge.Collagen.and.Its.Applications.in.Cosmetology............77 Janapala Venkateswara Rao, Ramjee Pallela, and G.V.S. Bhanu Prakash Chapter 8 Skin.Photoprotection.by.Marine.Carotenoids...........................................................105 Kazuo Miyashita, Nana Mikami, M. Airanthi K. Widjaja-Adhi, Masayuki Abe, and Masashi Hosokawa Chapter 9 Role.of.Astaxanthin.in.Cosmeceutical.Applications................................................119 Pamela Chávez-Crooker, Johanna Obreque, Jeanette Vera, and Karla Moya Chapter 10 Effect.of.Marine.Collagen.Peptide.on.Skin.Condition.............................................125 Kenji Sato and Yasutaka Shigemura v vi Contents Chapter 11 Fish.Collagen.and.Tissue.Repair...............................................................................133 Yoshihiko Hayashi, Shizuka Yamada, Takeshi Ikeda, and Kajiro Yanagiguchi Chapter 12 Red.Algal.Mycosporine-Like.Amino.Acids.(MAAs).as.Potential. Cosmeceuticals.....................................................................................................143 Yvonne V. Yuan and Yasantha Athukorala Chapter 13 Cosmeceutical.Applications.of.Chitosan.and.Its.Derivatives...................................169 Mahinda Senevirathne, Chang-Bum Ahn, Se-Kwon Kim, and Jae-Young Je Chapter 14 Brown.Algae-Derived.Compounds.as.Potential.Cosmeceuticals.............................179 Mahinda Senevirathne and Se-Kwon Kim Chapter 15 Biological.Properties.of.Cosmeceuticals.Derived.from.Marine.Algae....................191 Se-Kwon Kim and Ratih Pangestuti Chapter 16 Hair.Biology.and.Care.Product.Ingredients.from.Marine.Organisms......................201 Se-Kwon Kim and Soon-Sun Bak Chapter 17 Cosmeceuticals.from.Marine.Fish.and.Shellfish......................................................211 Vazhiyil Venugopal Chapter 18 Unlocking.the.Power.of.Marine.Cosmeceuticals.for.Wrinkle-Free.Skin.................233 Dinanath B. Fulse, Spandana R. Kopalli, and Sushruta Koppula Chapter 19 Sea.Water.and.Sea.Mud:.Cosmeceuticals.Applications............................................241 Se-Kwon Kim, Jayachandran Venkatesan, and P.N. Sudha Chapter 20 Potential.Cosmeceutical.Applications.of.Phlorotannins.and.Fucoidans.from. Marine.Algae.in.the.Treatment.of.Atopic.Dermatitis...............................................257 Noel Vinay Thomas and Se-Kwon Kim Chapter 21 Application.of.Chitin.Nanofibrils.and.Collagen.of.Marine.Origin.as.Bioactive. Ingredients.................................................................................................................267 Pierfrancesco Morganti, Paola del Ciotto, Gianluca Morganti, and Véronique Fabien-Soulé Chapter 22 Screening.Strategies.for.the.Discovery.of.Marine.Microbial.Cosmeceuticals.........291 Se-Kwon Kim and Ira Bhatnagar Contents vii Chapter 23 Cosmeceutical.Properties.of.Brown.Algae.and.Its.Industrial.Applications.............305 You-Jin Jeon, W.A.J.P. Wijesinghe, and Se-Kwon Kim Chapter 24 Potential.Applications.of.Chitosan.as.a.Marine.Cosmeceutical...............................319 Elena Lecumberri Lima, Laura Calderón Muñoz, Ruth Expósito Harris, and Ángeles María Heras Caballero Chapter 25 Industrial.Applications.of.Marine.Cosmeceuticals...................................................335 Janak K. Vidanarachchi and Maheshika S. Kurukulasuriya Chapter 26 Aquatic.and.Marine.Bioactive.Antimicrobial.Peptides.and.Biosurfactants.for. the.Cosmeceutical.Industry.......................................................................................371 Jen-Leih Wu and Jenn-Kan Lu Chapter 27 Industrial.Prospects.of.the.Cosmeceuticals.Derived.from.Marine.Mucin...............391 Se-Kwon Kim and Fatih Karadeniz Preface Science.is.the.intellectual.activity.carried.on.by.humans.that.is.formulated.to.discover.newer.and. novel.information.about.the.natural.world.in.which.we.thrive..Humans.have.developed.great.skills.to. organize.and.use.this.basic.information.and.translate.it.into.meaningful.output.for.their.well-being. through.logical.approaches..Cosmeceutical.science.is.one.branch.of.this.never-ending.curiosity.of. humans.to.design.the.best.out.of.the.existing.framework.of.resources.in.the.natural.environment.. Although.a.very.promising.field,.it.is.yet.to.achieve.its.bloom..A.vast.exploration.of.various.animal. and.plant.sources.in.search.of.cosmeceuticals.has.led.to.some.efficient.products..However,.most.of. them.are.now.being.associated.with.secondary.effects.of.unknown.magnitude.of.complications.. The.idea.of.this.book.is.to.investigate.oceanic.sources.as.an.alternative.to.these.complications.and. survey.the.possibilities.of.bringing.together.this.vast.treasure.of.marine.environment.toward.safer. cosmeceutic.development..As.an.editor.of.this.book,.I.have.aimed.to.accumulate.the.latest.research. in.this.field.from.across.the.globe.and.highlight.the.potential.of.marine.micro-.and.macroflora.and. fauna.as.effective.agents.for.the.development.of.novel.cosmeceuticals..The.concept.of.this.book.had. been.developing.since.I.started.researching.hair.growth.factors.and.anti-inflammatory.compounds. of.marine.origin..I.always.used.to.marvel.at.the.gems.of.the.aquatic.milieu.for.their.possession.of. substances.par.excellence.and.wonder.why.the.exploration.and.exploitation.of.marine.cosmeceuti- cals.is.a.long-time.task..The.question.of.why,.despite.this.great.potential,.just.a.few.cosmeceutical. products.from.marine.sources.have.entered.the.cosmetic.market.has.pushed.me.to.commit.to.the. complex.task.of.compiling.a.book.on.this.topic.of.utmost.interest..I.looked.into.the.research.groups. working.in.the.field.of.aquatic.sciences,.marine.environment.in.particular,.and.started.reviewing. their.concepts.of.developing.marine-derived.cosmeceuticals..After.thorough.research,.I.decided.on. a.collective.contribution.of.researchers.from.different.countries.for.their.input,.and.finally.wrote. this.book.to.present.a.consolidated.overview.of.the.marine.environment.as.a.productive.source.of. novel.cosmeceuticals,.and.the.future.prospects.of.seeing.marine.sources.as.cosmeceutics.factories. With.contributions.from.Korea,.Japan,.China,.India,.Spain,.France,.Chile,.Malaysia,.Canada,. Italy,.Sri.Lanka,.and.Taiwan,.this.book.holds.great.insight.for.cosmetologists.and.marine.research- ers.in.general..My.sincere.thanks.to.all.the.contributors,.who.have.brought.the.best.themes.and. concepts.to.the.book..The.layout.of.the.book.has.been.kept.simple.and.understandable.with.explana- tions.wherever.possible..Part.I.starts.with.a.general.introduction.to.cosmeceuticals.and.marine.cos- meceutical.sources..It.covers.an.overview.of.the.biological.activities.of.different.marine.sources.and. the.class.of.cosmeceutical.agents.that.they.may.deliver..This.is.followed.by.the.chemical.properties. of.marine.cosmeceuticals,.with.special.emphasis.on.chitosan.as.a.cosmeceutical.agent,.in.Part.II.. The.most.extended.part.of.this.book,.Part.III,.covers.the.range.of.biological.properties.and.bioactive. promise.that.the.oceanic.environment.holds.in.the.field.of.cosmetology..The.information.covered. in.this.part.is.useful.for.cosmetologists.and.marine.researchers.looking.for.marine.alternatives.to. existing.cosmeceuticals.in.terms.of.skin.whitening,.antiwrinkling,.photo.protection,.tissue.repair,. and.antiacne,.as.well.as.hair.growth..Collagen.is.an.important.protein.in.our.skin.and.its.degrada- tion.results.have.been.associated.with.aging..Part.III.also.covers.information.on.marine.fish.and. sponge-derived.collagens.as.effective.skin.treatment.agents.to.be.utilized.in.antiaging.formulations.. Biotechnology.is.an.emerging.science.that.in.conjunction.with.marine.biology.and.microbiology. may.lead.to.wonders.in.the.field.of.cosmetology..I.have.explored.the.role.of.biotechnology.in.marine. cosmeceutical.science,.and.Part.IV.of.this.book.deals.with.this,.where.we.have.presented.different. strategies.for.enhanced.cosmeceutical.production..Part.V.wraps.up.the.book.with.the.industrial. applications.of.marine.cosmeceuticals..Apart.from.other.applications,.this.part.covers.information. on.aquatic.and.marine.bioactive.antimicrobial.peptides.for.the.cosmeceutical.industry,.which.is. ix x Preface an.important.aspect.of.marine.protein.chemistry..This.book.offers.comprehensive.knowledge.on. novel.marine.cosmeceutical.agents,.their.biological.and.chemical.properties,.as.well.as.industrial. applications. I.owe.deep.gratitude.to.the.people.who.helped.me.and.encouraged.me.in.the.process.of.writing. this.book..My.students,.who.are.the.budding.researchers,.have.extended.their.helping.hands.for.this. effort.of.mine..I.would.also.like.to.thank.Taylor.&.Francis.for.their.willingness.in.this.project.and. publishing.this.book.with.their.in-depth.professionalism.and.sense.of.excellence..I.hope.reading.this. book.is.a.great.experience.for.you. Se-Kwon Kim

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"The first comprehensive volume on marine cosmeceuticals, this book covers their sources and prospects; extraction; isolation; identification; structure and chemical composition; and in vivo and in vitro applications. It covers fundamentals as well as practical techniques in the emerging field of ma
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