Lonely Planet Bali Lombok 15 edition Travel Guide

403 Pages·2015·20.97 MB·English

by  Berkmoes

P
D
F
Bali &
Lombok
PDF ebook
Edition 15th Edition
Release Date Apr 2015
Pages 400
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4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 4
Sights Sleeping
1
r 5
Beaches Eating
2 6
PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking
C 3
Courses Entertainment
Your planning tool kit
T 7
Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals 8 Information
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
2 Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
Your complete guide
ranges, by author preference.
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
3
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
4
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Bali &
Lombok
North Bali
p228 Central Gili Islands
Mountains
p281
West Bali p213
p246 East Bali
p178
Ubud & Lombok
Around p255
p136
Kuta &
Seminyak South Bali &
p46 the Islands
p94
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Ryan Ver Berkmoes
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to KUTA & SEMINYAK ..46 Sukawati & Puaya . . . . . . 175
Bali & Lombok. . . . . . . . . . 4 Kuta & Legian . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Singapadu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Bali & Lombok Map ......6 Seminyak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Celuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
Bali & Lombok’s Top 17 ...8 Kerobokan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Batubulan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
Canggu & Around . . . . . . . . 88
Need to Know ..........16
EAST BALI .........178
What’s New ............18
SOUTH BALI & Coast Road to
If You Like… ............19 THE ISLANDS ......94 Kusamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Gianyar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Month by Month ........21 Bukit Peninsula .......96
Sidan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
Itineraries ............ 24 Jimbaran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Bangli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
Central Bukit . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Bali & Lombok Semarapura
Outdoors ............. 29 Balangan Beach . . . . . . . . . 99 (Klungkung) . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Pecatu Indah . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Travel with Children .... 39 Sidemen Road . . . . . . . . . 187
Bingin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Pura Besakih . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Regions at a Glance .... 42 Impossibles Beach . . . . . . 102
Gunung Agung . . . . . . . . . 189
Padang Padang . . . . . . . . 102
Rendang to Amlapura . . . 191
Ulu Watu & Around . . . . . 103
Kusamba to Padangbai . . 191
MATT MUNRO / LONELY PLANET © UNTSPBaueanunlnngsajoaauuu asnr DaS g H.une .Baa r& ..a reb ..n nA .o.gor .u.aao .r.nu . . . .n . . . . . . . . .d. . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . .. . . . . .. . . . . . .. . . . . .111111000111048857 PCATTAiiammarrdnttleaaadad npiGGd gu&aaabr nnsataaggh . igg . . . e . . .aa . . . &t . . .o . . . AA . . .r . . .mo . . .u . . .en . . .dd . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222110099048221
Denpasar .............118 Far East Coast . . . . . . . . . . 204
Nusa Lembongan . . . . . . . 126 Kubu Region . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Nusa Ceningan . . . . . . . . . 132 Tulamben . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Nusa Penida . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Tulamben to Yeh Sanih . . 211
MACAQUES, UBUD P137
UBUD & AROUND .. 136 CENTRAL
Ubud ................ 137 MOUNTAINS ...... 213
PETE SEAW BPeejdeunlgu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116708 GGuunnuunngg BBaattuur .r .A .r .e .a . . . .. .. .221145
ARD / LONELY PLANET © MTTTeaaagmrsoa . p l& .laa . klA .as .rnior .giu .n . . ng . .d . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111177770422 ACDBreraoadntuuaengurd . u . BlG . . ru . .a . .nt . .ua . .nn . .g . .A . .Br . .ea . .at . .u . . .r. . . . . . .. .222221006
Blahbatuh & Around . . . . 174 Candikuning . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Kutri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Pancasari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Bona & Belega . . . . . . . . . 175 Danau Buyan & Danau
Tamblingan . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
RICE FIELD, UBUD P137 Batuan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Munduk & Around . . . . . . 223 North & Central Bali & Lombok
Gunung Batukau Lombok .............266 Today ...............302
Area ................225 Bangsal to Bayan . . . . . . . 266 History ..............304
The Antosari Road ....227 Senaru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
Local Life & Religion ...313
Sembalun Valley . . . . . . . . 269
NORTH BALI ......228 Gunung Rinjani . . . . . . . . . 269 Food & Drink .........324
Yeh Sanih . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Tetebatu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 The Arts .............332
Singaraja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 South Lombok. . . . . . . . 273 Architecture .........344
Lovina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Praya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273
Environment ..........351
Seririt & Around . . . . . . . . 238 Kuta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
Pulaki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 East Lombok .........280
Pemuteran . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Labuhan Lombok . . . . . . . 280 SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Banyuwedang . . . . . . . . . . 243
Labuhan Lalang . . . . . . . . 243 GILI ISLANDS ..... 281
Taman Nasional Gili Trawangan . . . . . . . . . . 283 Directory A–Z ........358
Bali Barat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Gili Meno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Transport ............369
Gili Air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
Health ................377
WEST BALI. . . . . . . . 246
Language ............382
Pura Tanah Lot . . . . . . . . . 248
Kapal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Index ................392
Pura Taman Ayun . . . . . . . 248 Map Legend ..........399
Marga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
Tabanan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
Antosari & Bajera . . . . . . . 250
SPECIAL FEATURES
Balian Beach . . . . . . . . . . . 250
Bali & Lombok’s
Jembrana Coast . . . . . . . . 251 Best Beaches .......59
Negara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
Top 5 Local
Belimbingsari & Encounters ........323
Palasari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
Cekik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Top 5 Balinese
Treats .............331
Gilimanuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
Top 5 Arts
Experiences ........343
LOMBOK .........255
West Lombok. . . . . . . . . 258
Mataram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
Lembar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
Southwestern
Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
Senggigi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
Senggigi to Bangsal . . . . . 266
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
4
Welcome to
Bali & Lombok
The mere mention of Bali evokes
thoughts of a paradise. It’s more than
a place; it’s a mood, an aspiration, a
tropical state of mind.
Island of the Gods Bali’s Essence
The rich and diverse culture of Bali plays Yes, Bali has beaches, surfing, diving, and
out at all levels of life, from the exquisite resorts great and small, but it’s the essence
flower-petal offerings placed everywhere, of Bali – and the Balinese – that makes it
to the processions of joyfully garbed locals, so much more than just a fun-in-the-sun
shutting down major roads as they march retreat. It is possible to take the cliché of the
to one of the myriad temple ceremonies, smiling Balinese too far but, in reality, the
to the other-worldly traditional music and inhabitants of this small island are indeed
dance performed island-wide. a generous, genuinely warm people. There’s
also a fun, sly sense of humour behind the
One Island, Many smiles. Upon seeing a bald tourist, many
locals exclaim ‘bung ujan’, which means to-
Destinations
day’s rain is cancelled – it’s their way of say-
On Bali you can lose yourself in the chaos of ing that the hairless head is like a clear sky.
Kuta or the sybaritic pleasures of Seminyak
and Kerobokan, surf wild beaches in the
Lombok & the Gilis, Too
south or just hang out on Nusa Lembongan.
You can go family-friendly in Sanur or Almost as big as Bali, Lombok is the largely
savour a lavish getaway on the Bukit Pen- undiscovered island next door. From its
insula. Ubud is the heart of Bali, a place volcanic centre to untrodden idyllic beaches
where the spirit and culture of the island such as Mawun, it rewards travellers who
are most accessible. It shares the island’s want to explore. Many are drawn to mighty
most beautiful rice fields and ancient mon- Gunung Rinjani, Indonesia’s second-highest
uments with east and west Bali. The middle volcano. Rivers and waterfalls gush down
of Bali is dominated by the dramatic volca- its fissured slopes, while its summit – com-
noes of the central mountains and hillside plete with hot springs and a dazzling crater
temples such as Pura Luhur Batukau (one lake – is the ultimate trekker’s prize. The
of the island’s estimated 10,000 temples). fabled Gili Islands are three exquisite drop-
North and west Bali are thinly populated lets of white sand sprinkled with coconut
but have the kind of diving and surfing that palms and surrounded by coral reefs teem-
make any journey worthwhile. ing with marine life and, on Gili Trawan-
gan, legendary nightlife.
5
M
ARTIN PUDDY / GETTY IM
AGES ©
Why I Love Bali & Lombok
By Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Author
In 1993 I visited Bali and Lombok for the first time. When I went through immigration, the
officer glanced at my passport and said in the sweetest voice possible: ‘Have a wonderful
birthday on Bali’. Who wouldn’t fall in love? I spent a lot of that trip slack-jawed with wonder-
ment. I remember dancers and musicians materialising from across the rice fields to perform
in Ubud; I remember Gili Trawangan with just a couple of cement huts and some amazing
snorkelling. Since then, these places – like me – have changed greatly, but their essence still
evokes love.
For more about our author, see page 400
Above: Woman walking through rice terraces in Ubud (p137)
›
B Balail &i & L Lomombobkok
#\Bajulmati
Pulau Menjangan
Amazing diving and
snorkelling (p241)
BALI
Java Pulau
Tabuan LOMBOK
#\Betekan
Prapat Agung
Selogiri Peninsula Pulau Bali & Lombok
#\ Menjangan
#\Meneng Labuhan B A L I S E A
R Lalang Banyuwedang Pemuteran
#\KetapangGunung #\ #\ #\ #Þ Lovina
#\GBialinmyaCunweSeulkaatkBink#\g#\i (PAG3rg1 aKu0(p6nRmea9lg#\ta)8tMmaekG)laa Bnyaa(n4y3GuR0(w S1m0ae)d0nag4Rnlmag(Gn)1(g 31M30RR8e58rmbmP)uP)uGku(l1ar RMa3k(4i#÷G1e42s Mem2 RBTh4ua)aemmslii)aBnarNaatsio(Gn14Ca PR1lea2ltumaksa)n#\bawangRanSgedr#\u#\ir#\iPteng#\aMsatuyolenngM#\und#\uk
ali Pupuan#\
Pujungan#\
Negara
#\ Mendoyo
#\
Pura GedeÞ##\Perancak P#Þura Medewi
Perancak Rambut #\
Siwi
Gili Trawangan Gili Islands Balian
Beautiful sunrises after Great diving in clear Beach
joyous nights (p283) waters (p281) #\
LOMBOK #\Antosari
Lombok ee## 00 2200kkmm
00 1100mmiilleess
BSR A E L A I Akar AkarB#\ayan#\#\Anyar #\ObBell aOnbteulngLLaaGGwwiiaalliinngg
#\PLleoSnmeglabkotuTTknrrgaawwGGSaaiiellnnniigggaaBgnniagRni#\gMMsGGaeeiilnnll#\GGAA#\ii#\ooiiiiRPllrrGiei(m#\ 8ST6eaa#\n5bnamGijrnuo)ignsngTdGaaumnngauSnSne engNgaD aaRrarsGuianni(o #\3aRAjanu7nina2nail6jk#÷###÷aRmn#\S)iSwa(eG#\2ylaa 2SLNna3eR#\agwm0nambgnai#\)glun#\#\LLSPLoauaambgbn#\uiudbahSShaonGGauunakniingllllaaiitt
AmpMenaatanr#\aKme#\di#\rCi#\akraMneagnatarang#\ #\KoKtoapraa#\njag #\M#\Aansjaanbiagik#\PrinSgAegllaaabstaya
BBaannggkkooGGGGeeiiddlliieeLembar #\Gerung #\Praya Sakra#\ Timor#\Labuhan Indian
Pela#\ngan#\ Seko#\to#\ng #\MGuanreujneg #\Mujur #\TanjuHnagji Ocean
BlonMgoanst#\oPnegnsga#\apnathap#\#\MSBelaal#\wonnuangk#\Kuta #\#\KEakliaaLsnutaanr#\TRainngjugSnit gU B A W A rewAGa surpdneiunctgna gcc luRimlainrb j a(anpnd2i6 9)
SUBAWA
I N D I A N O C E A N
Selong Blanak
Lombok’s most perfect
beach (p279)
e# 0 20km
0 10miles
Jatiluwih Rice Fields
Green ribbons curving
around hillsides (p225)
Ubud ELEVATION
Bali’s cultural heart (p137)
#]Sang#Þsi(#\tPSuuarnag BKs#\eiutj)biut#ÞamMPbuaard#\ahuYawenh Sa#\nPihacung Tejakula 112050000000mmm
Singaraja Karang ###\ 700m
#\ #\Sawan Sambirenteng 500m
Sukasade #\ 300m
200m
RG(1 7P4e5nmul)isan #\Tembok 100m
Gitgi#\t (G20 C9a6tumr) Catur ##\#PenulGisa BnaturSongan #\Tianyar 0
R #\ (1717m)#\
G Lesong Þ#DPuarnau U Blurantan KintamBaantiu#\r#\ R \#BTouynagkah #\Kubu
(1860m) (Candikunung)
R Candikuning R
(G2 0P6oh3mon)R B#\e#\dugul #\Pelaga Penelokan#\ G(2 A15b2amng) #\Tulamben
G Agung Amed
RG( 2B2a7t6umka)u #\Pacung (314R2m) Culik#\ #\
BLaPutuuh#Þrkuaaru #\PJeantie#\lubwelih #\PeP#\tuaPjnuagnyagn#########\KgaaynTu#\aaKmnBabapyunauagkb#\sliihi#\r#Þ#\iingPP(BauRmareannp gKdaleait#\#\B)ahnenegsnak#\BiehP#\#Þs#\uMarIkasuie#ÞhnhcaP(AGnuguruann uSgna)gmGbTaunirgtaga#\ #]AG(mR1#\ S1lU7ae5rjpuamunyr)gaa#\Aas
Marga#\ Sa#\ngeh Pejeng JaBmubkuitl#\ #\Sidemen Tenga#\n#\aCnandidasa LoSmelbaotk
KeTdaibria#]#\nan #\MengwiUBbauMtdua#\#asn#\#ÞP(Pu#\JPesaujegerranaintgg)#]G#\iSaidnaynar S(#\KelmuKnaugrsaka#\upmnugrba)a#ÞLPauwr#\aaP Ghaodaangbai
Sem#\pidi Celuk#\#\#\Sukawati #\Lebih Bali’s caSpeitmali noyf agklitz (p71)
KeroS#\beComakniangnyga#\uk####\DeBnapt#^##############aubsualran#\#\San#\uKretewwSeeelllat BB aaLddJeuuumnnnnbggggountLbgeaamtnNub#\uosTnaogyaanp#\akPPeuehrna#ÞPe Detadarleamn#\Sampalan
#\
LegKiuatna#\#\ CeNniunsgaan #\Karangsari
Benoa R #\Semaya
Harbour\# (529m)
#\Benoa
Jimbaran#\ TBanenjuonag Kuta PNenuisdaa
#\Bingen ###\Nusa Dua All-night clubbing and
#Þ #\Pecatu partying (p67)
Pura Luhur I N D I A N
Ulu Watu Bukit O C E A N
Peninsula
Kuta Beach
Twelve kilometres of
sand and surf (p48)

Bukit Peninsula Beaches
A string of sandy pearls
(p96)
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
8
Bali & Lombok’s
Top 17