IS 12131: Textiles - Worsted Suitings (Amalgamating IS 12132:1987)

2005·1.2 MB·English

by  Bureau of Indian Standards

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IS 12131 (2005): Textiles - Worsted Suitings (Amalgamating
IS 12132:1987) [TXD 4: Wool and Wool Products]
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Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda
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“Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen”

IS12131:2005
(Amalgamating IS12132: 1987)
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Indian Standard
TEXTILES — WORSTED SUITINGS —
SPECIFICATION
(First Revision)
ICS 59.020

0 BIS 2005
BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS
MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG
NEW DELHI 110002

July 2005 Price Group 4
Wool and Wool Products Including Floor Coverings Sectional Committee, TX 04
FOREWORD
This Indian Standard (First Revision) wasadopted bytheBureau ofIndian Standards, after the drafl finalized by
the Wool and Wool Products Including Floor Coverings Sectional Committee had been approved by the Textile
Division Council.
This standard was first published in 1987. This revision has been taken up to update the standard on the basis
of experience gained during itsuse to cover the following major changes:
a) Keeping inview the similarity inrequirements and end use, IS 12132 : 1987 ‘Specification for polyester
wool blended worsted suitings’ has been amalgamated with this standard. Accordingly, the title of this
standard has been modified to cover polyester wool blended worsted suitings also.
b) Sampling and criteria for conformity have been modified.
The composition of the Committee responsible for formulation of this standard isgiven in Annex C.
For the purpose of deciding whether aparticular requirement of this standard iscomplied with, the fhal value,
observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance with
1S2:1960 ‘Rules for rounding off numerical values (revised)’. Thenumber ofsignificant places retained inthe
rounded off value should be the same asthat of the specified value inthis standard.
IS 12131:2005
Indian Standard
TEXTILES — WORSTED SUITINGS —
SPECIFICATION
(First Revision)
1 SCOPE t) Prominently noticeable thick and thin places;
g) Cuts and holes; and
This standard prescribes the requirements of worsted
suitings. h) Dyeing defects (streaks, patches).
2 REFERENCES 6 MARKING
The standards listed in Annex A contain provisions 6.1 The cloth shall be marked with the following:
which through reference in this text, constitute
a) Name of the material;
provision of thisstandard. Atthetimeof publication,
b) Manufacturer’s name, initials or oftrade-mark
the editions indicated were valid. All standards are
subject to revision and parties to agreement based on ‘ c) Yearofmanufacture;
this standard are encouraged to investigate the d) Length and width of the piece; and
possibility of applying the most recent editions of
e) Blend composition inaccordance with IS 1793.
the standards.
6.2 BIS Certification Marking
3 TERMINOLOGY
The worsted suitings may also be marked with the
For the purpose of this standard, the following
Standard Mark.
definitions along with those given in IS 11206 shall
apply. 6.2.1 The use of the Standard Mark is governed by
theprovisions ofBureau ofIndian Stan&r& Act, 1986
3.1 All Wool Worsted Suiting — Fabric made from
and the Rules andRegulations made thereunder. The
virgin wool spun on combed fibre spinning system.
details of conditions under which the license for the
3.2 Worsted Spun Yarn —Yam spunfromlongfibre useofStandard Markmaybe granted tomanufacturers
slivers after removal of short fibres in the combing or producers may be obtained tlom Bureau of Indian
process. Standards.
3.3 Virgin Wool —Pureandnewwool, commercially 7 PACKING

it means wool that has not be en processed or used
7.1 Packing may bedoneeither inthe form ofa‘bale’
before andisthus distinctly differen t fromreprocessed
or ‘case’ asrequired by the buyer.
wool or reused wool.
7.2 Bale Packing
4 MANUFACTURE
Eachpiece offabric shallbefolded tohalf of itswidth
Yam used inthemanufacture ofthese fabrics shall be
over a cardboard or straw board of suitable size and
spunoncombedfibrespinningsystemtiom virginwool
thickness. Each piece shallthen bewrapped with low-
or with itsblend with other fibres.
density polyethylene film of minimum 40 micron
5 REQUIREMENTS thickness and conforming to IS 2508. A suitable
number of such pieces shall again be covered with
5.1 The worsted suitings shall meet the requirements
another layer of polyethylene film of the same type
asgiven inTable 1.
followed byawaterproof packing paper conforming to
IS 1398 and then be enclosed in an outer layer of
5.2 The worsted suitings shallbe generally free from
hessian cloth/HDPE woven fabric, preferably
objectionable flaws such as:
conforming to Type 1 of IS 2818 (Part 2)/IS 6899
a) Missing ends and picks;
respectively, in the form of a bale. The bale shall be
b) Floats; finally strapped with metallic/synthetic straps.
c) Stains;
7.3 Case Packing
d) Weft bars and warp section marks;
Each piece of fabric to be packed shall be fwstfolded
e) Big slubs, knots and specks unless they are a
tohalf of itswidth over acardboard or straw board of
part of the design;
suitable size and thickness. Each piece shall then be

1
IS 12131:2005
TabIel Requirements for Worsted Suitings
(Clause 5.1)
SI Characteristic Requirement MethodofTest,
No. Refto
(1) (2) (3) (4)
O Length,m tolerance Asagreed/declared/markednonegative Is 1954
tolerance
ii) Width,cm tolerance AS agreed/declared/marked *1.25 1s1954
percentsubjecttoam&imum of2cm
iii) Mrrss,g/mz tolerance Asagreed/declared/marked+3pereent 1S1964(seeNote I)
iv) Creaserecoveryangle,J4in: 1S4681
a) Warpway 140”
b) Weftway 14cr’
v) Bendingrigidity,mgcm: IS6490
a) Warpway lloto 170
b) Weftway 85to100
vi) Drape,percent 40to55 IS8357
vii) Pillingresistance 4orbetter 1s10971
viii) Fibrecontent: IS8476
a) AllWOOsIuiting
Woolcontent,percent 100
Tolerance Up to 0.3 percent for inadvertent
fibre upto 5 percent for decorative/
technicalreasonbyusingnon-celhrlosic
tibres
b) Blendsuiting: IS2006
1) Wool,percent Asdeclared+3units
2) Polyesterorothertibres,percent Asdeclared+3units
ix) Breakingstrengthon5cmx 20cmN(kgf),A4irr: IS1969
a) Warpway 200(20)
b) Wefiway 200(20)

@ Relaxationshrinkage,percent,M u AnnexB

a) Warpway 2.0
b) Wetlway 2.0
xi) Colourfastnessto:
a) Light 4orbetter IS2454
b) Washing:Test2
I) Changeincolourofthetestspecimen 4orbetter IS3361
2) Stainingontheadjacentfabrics 4orbetter
c) Dry-cleaning: IS4802
I) Changeincolourofthespecimen 4orbetter
2) Stainingofthesolvent 4orbetter
d) Dry-heattreatment IS4636
1) Changeincolourofthetestspecimen 3-4orbetter
2) Stainingontheadjacentfabrics 3-4orbetter
xii) pH valueofaqueousextract 5.0to7.5 IS1390
xiii) Solventextractablematter,percent,MUX 1.0 IS4390(seeNote2)
NOTES
1 Incaseofoven-drymethod,themoistureregainvaluesforwoolandotherfibresshallbeasgiveninIS13157.
2 Whiletestingthisrequirement,petroleumethersolventshallbeusedinplaceof benzene-methylalcoholmixture.

2
IS 12131:2005
wrapped with low density polyethylene film of 8.2 The conformity of alottothe requirements ofthe
minimum 4(I micron thickness conforming to standard shall be determined on the basis of the tests
IS 2508. A suitable number of such pieces shall then carried out on the samples selected from the lot.
be covered with a layer of kraft paper conforming to
IS 1398and then enclosed inawooden case.The case 8.3 Unless otherwise agreed to between the buyer
shallbefinally strapped withmetallic/synthetic straps. and the seller, the number of pieces to be selected at
random shall be in accordance with co] 2 and 3 of
8 SAMPLING AND CRITERIA FOR Table 2. To ensure randomness of selection, IS 4905
CONFORMITY may be used.
8.1 Lot 8.4 Number of Tests and Criteria for Conformity
The quantity of cloth delivered to abuyer against one 8.4.1 Thenumber oftests and criteria for conformity
despatch note shall constitute a lot. shall be as given in Table 3.
Table 2 Sample Size and Criteria for Conformity
0 (Clause 8.3, and Table 3)
S1No. LotSize SampleSize AcceptanceNumber Sub-sampleSize
(1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
O up to 50 8 0 5
ii) 51 - 150 20 1 5
iii) 151 - 280 32 2 5
iv) 281 - 500 50 3 5
v) 501-1200 80 5 5
vi) 1201 -3200 125 7 5
vii) 3201 and above 200 10 5

3
IS 12131:2005
Table 3 Number of Tests and Criteria for Conformity
(Clause 8.4.1)
,
S1No. Characteristics No.ofPieces CriteriaforConformity
(1) (2) (3) (4)
O Length AccordingtoCOI3ofTable2 Lengthofeachpiecenottomeasureless
thanthedeclaredormarkedlength
ii) Width do Width of each piece to remain within
+2cmofthedeclaredwidth
iii) Masspersquaremetre do Mass per square metre of each piece to
remainwithin*3percentofthedeclared
vahre
iv) Relaxationshrinkage AccordingtoCOI5ofTable2 (Z) +0.4R<specifiedvahre(seeNote)
v) Pillingresistance do All the test specimens to satisfy the
relevantrequirements
vi) Creaserecoveryangle Accordingtocol5ofTable2 (i) -0.4 R> specifiedvalu~see Note)
(warpwayandwettway)
vii) Bendingrigidity do All the test specimens to satisfy the
relevantrequirements
viii) Drape,percent do do
ix) Blendpercentage do do
x) Breakingload do do
xi) Colourfastness do do
xii) Solventextractablematterand do do
pHvalueofaqueousextract
NOTE
(i) = averagevalueobtainedbydividingthesumoftheobserved valuesbythenumberoftestresults.
R= range,thatis,thedifferencebetweenthemaximumandminimuminasetofobservedvalues.

4
IS 12131 :200s
ANNEX A
(Clause 2)
LIST OF REFERRED INDIAN STANDARDS
IS 1 >. Title IS No. Title
1390: 983 Methods for determination of 4390:200 Textiles — Method for
value of aqueous extracts estimation of solvent soluble
DH
Df textile materials (first matter in textile materials @st
revision) revision) (Amalgamating
IS 5152)
1398: 982 Packing paper, water-proof,
bitumen laminated (second 4636:1988 Method for determination of
revision) colour fastness of textile
materials to dry-heat treatments
1793:1973 Guide for marking textile
(excluding pressing) (first
materials made of wool @rst
revision)
revision)
4681:1981 Method for determination of
1954:1990 Determination of length and
recovery fkomcreasing oftextile
width of woven fabrics —
fabrics by measuring the angle
Methods (second revision) of recovery (first revision)
1964:2001 Textiles — Methods for 4905:1968 Methods for random sampling
determination of mass per unit
4802:1988 Method for determination of
length and mass per unit area of
colour fastness of textile
fabrics (second revision)
materials to dry-cleaning @rst
1969:1985 Methods for determination of revision)
breaking load and elongation of 6359:1971 Method for conditioning of
woven textile fabrics (second textiles
revision)
6490:1971 Method for determination of
2006:1988 Method forquantitative chemical stifl%essof fabrics — Cantilever
analysis of binary mixtures of test
protein fibres with certain other 6899:1997 Textiles — High density
non-protein fibres (second polyethylene (HDPE) woven
revision) fabrics — Specification (second
2454:1985 Methods for determination of revision)
colour fas t ness of textile 8357:1977 Method for assessment of fabric
materials to artificial light drape
(Xenon lamp) @st revision)
8476:1977 Method for determination of
2508:1984 Specification for low density wool content in woollen textile
polyethylene films (second materials
revision) 10971:1984 Method for determination of
2818 (Part2) :1971 Indian Hessian: Part 2 305 and pillfng resistance of fabrics
229 g/m2at 16percent contract 11206:1984 Glossary of textile terms —
regain (fhst revision) Wool and other animal fibres,
their processing and products
3361:1979 Method for determination of
colour fastness of textile 13157:1991 Textile fibres — Commercial
materials to washing, Test 2 moisture regains —
(first revision) Specification