h c e p e t n a u h e T f o s u m h t s I Into the Hearts of the Amazons In Search of a Modern Matriarchy Tom DeMott The University of Wisconsin Press 1930 Monroe Street Madison, Wisconsin 53711 www.wisc.edu/wisconsinpress/ 3 Henrietta Street London WC2E 8LU, England Copyright © 2006 The Board of Regents of the University of Wisconsin System All rights reserved 1 3 5 4 2 Printed in the United States of America Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data DeMott, Tom. Into the hearts of the Amazons : in search of a modern matriarchy / Tom DeMott. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13: 978-0-299-21640-5 (cloth: alk. paper) 1. Zapotec women—Mexico—Juchitán de Zaragoza—History. 2. Zapotec women—Mexico—Juchitán de Zaragoza—Social conditions. 3. Zapotec Indians—Mexico—Juchitán de Zaragoza—Social life and customs. 4. Matriarchy—Mexico—Juchitán de Zaragoza. 5. Juchitán de Zaragoza (Mexico)—History. 6. Juchitán de Zaragoza (Mexico)—Social life and customs. I. Title. F1221.Z3D44 2006 305.897´6807274—dc22 2005032818 Terrace Books, a division of the University of Wisconsin Press, takes its name from the Memorial Union Terrace, located at the University of Wisconsin–Madison. Since its inception in 1907, the Wisconsin Union has provided a venue for students, faculty, staff, and alumni to debate art, music, politics, and the issues of the day. It is a place where theater, music, drama, dance, outdoor activities, and major speakers are made available to the campus and the community. To learn more about the Union, visit www.union.wisc.edu. h To h You should see them arrive like walking towers, their windows open, their heart like a window, their nocturnal girth visited by the moon. Elena Poniatowska I am still of the opinion, that only two topics can be of the least interest to a serious and studious mind—sex and the dead. William Butler Yeats Contents Acknowledgments ix The Blue Mortuary 3 The Politician 18 Honoring San Vicente 22 The Apologist 34 Lavada 37 The Russian 55 Quintessential Isthmus Women 58 The Kid 67 Vela Zandunga 70 The Spy 89 The Other City Hall 93 The Princess 99 Purse Strings 104 The Blaseña 121 Tirada de Frutas 126 The Radical 138 Day of the Dead 143 The Italian 157 Bloqueo 162 vii viii h Contents The Journalist 173 Marketplace Tehuantepec 177 The Filmmaker 196 Inventing Santa Inés 201 The Grad Student 219 Green Mangos 223 The Investigator 236 The General’s Daughter 241 Epilogue 251 Bibliography 259 Index 263 Acknowledgments Thanks to Howard Campbell, whose research, articles, and books on the Isthmus provided a platform from which to launch this book. To Julin Contreras for introducing me to the right women and for provid- ing insight and historical perspective to Isthmus customs. I also owe thanks to Julin’s recently deceased father, Jorge Contreras, for inviting me to return to the Isthmus during the season of velas and for commen- tary about how men fare in the unusual culture of the Isthmus. To Magda Garrido, and both of her parents, Galaor and Hortensia, who were especially hospitable and informative whenever I came unan- nounced to their door. I would also like to express my gratitude to Lugarda Charis, Delia Cruz, Gloria de la Cruz, Juana de la Cruz, Maureen Gosling, Florinda Luis, Obdulia Ruiz, Marinella Miano Borruso, Edaena Saynes- Vázquez, Jocasta Shakespeare, and Rosario Vialba for answering my many questions. Maureen Heckman listened patiently to my book talk for the last five years and provided thoughtful criticism and careful proofreading underthepressureofdeadlines. I owe gratitude to Jody Rhodes, my agent, for believing in my book when there were few believers to be found. And to Adam Mehring, an editor at the University of Wisconsin Press, for making me feel I was more than just a first-time author. Raphael Kadushin, also of the Uni- versity of Wisconsin Press, allowed me to reshape the book long after it was due. Carla Aspelmeier helped find a suitable cover photo. Special thanks to my readers and reviewers, including Tony Cohan, Matt DeMott, Brian Deutscher, Michael Fosmire, Jim Laird, Nadia Mejia, Richard Roper, Linda Watanabe, and Sandra Zentner. My final thanks go to my mother for introducing me to books at an early age and for proofreading the final drafts of the manuscript. ix
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