Innovation Policies and International Trade Rules: The Textiles and Clothing Industry in Developing Countries

315 Pages·2009·1.21 MB·English

by  Kaushalesh Lal, Pierre A. Mohnen (eds.)

Innovation Policies and International Trade Rules

Innovation Policies and
International Trade Rules
The Textiles and Clothing Industry in
Developing Countries
Edited by
Kaushalesh Lal
SeniorResearcheratUNU-MERIT,Netherlands
Pierre A. Mohnen
ProfessorialFellowatUNU-MERITandProfessor,UniversityofMaastricht,Netherlands
Selectionandeditorialcontent©KaushaleshLalandPierreAMohnen2009
Individualchapters©contributors2009
Softcover reprint of the hardcover 1st edition 2009 978-0-230-57743-5
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Contents
ListofFigures vii
ListofTables ix
NotesontheContributors xii
Acknowledgements xiv
1 Introduction 1
KaushaleshLalandPierreA.Mohnen
2 TheTextilesandClothingIndustryandEconomic
Development:AGlobalPerspective 10
KaushaleshLal
3 TheInstitutionalEnvironmentandtheTextiles
andClothingIndustryinChina 37
YanyunZhao,DanboGuo,FangChen,FengZhen,ZhiLi,
EnjingLi,HaodiLiandQingpingZhang
4 TheIndianTextilesandClothingIndustryand
InnovationPolicies 97
K.Narayanan
5 TheTextilesandClothingIndustryandEconomic
Development:ACaseStudyofMauritius 141
AveerajS.Peedoly
6 TechnologicalCapacity-BuildingInitiativesinthe
GhanaianApparelIndustry 195
DonatusKosiAyitey
7 InternationalTradeRulesandtheTextilesandClothing
IndustryinUruguay 231
AdrianaPeluffo
Index 291
v

List of Figures
2.1 TrendsinT&Cexportsinfirsttiercountries 16
2.2 GDPandexportperformanceofT&Cinfirsttiercountries 16
2.3 WageratesandexportperformanceofT&Cinfirst
tiercountries 17
2.4 TrendsinT&Cexportsinsecondtiercountries 18
2.5 GDPandexportperformanceofT&Cinsecondtier
countries 19
2.6 WageratesandexportperformanceofT&Cinsecond
tiercountries 20
2.7 TrendsinT&CexportsinKorea 20
2.8 GDPandtheexportperformanceofT&CinKorea 21
2.9 WageratesandexportperformanceofT&CinKorea 22
2.10 TrendsinT&CexportsinAsiaandtheMiddleEast 23
2.11 GDPandexportperformanceofT&CinAsiaandthe
MiddleEast 24
2.12 WageratesandexportperformanceofT&CinAsia 24
2.13 TrendsinT&CexportsinAfrica 25
2.14 GDPandexportperformanceofT&CinAfrica 26
2.15 WageratesandexportperformanceofT&CinAfrica 27
2.16 TrendsinT&CexportsinLatinAmericaandtheCaribbean 28
2.17 GDPandexportperformanceofT&CinLatinAmericaand
theCaribbean 29
2.18 WageratesandexportperformanceofT&CinLatinAmerica
andtheCaribbean 29
3.1 GlobalmarketshareofChina’sT&Cexports,1986–2002 48
3.2 Tradecompetitiveindexoftextilesandclothing,1980–2005 49
3.3 RevealedcomparativeadvantageindexofT&Csectors 53
3.4 RegionalmarketofShandongWeiqiaoPioneering 89
4.1 Shareoftextilesexports 120
4.2 Textilesexportstomajordestinations 123
5.1 GrowthrateoftheEPZ(%) 149
5.2 ForeigndirectinvestmentinEPZ 150
6.1 Internationaltraderulesandinnovationwithinthe
T&Cindustry 198
6.2 StructureofGhana’stextilesandgarmentindustry,1997 199
6.3 Textilesandclothingvalueaddedinmanufacturing 200
6.4 ValueofT&Ccompositioningrossmanufacturingoutput
inpercentage 201
vii
viii ListofFigures
6.5 T&Cgrowthingrossmanufacturingoutputinpercentages 202
6.6 Growthoftextilesandclothingmanufacturingvalueadded 205
6.7 T&Cmanufacturingproductiongrowthrates(1977=100) 208
6.8 Pricedifferencesoftextileprintsinpercentagewithrespect
toChina 223
7.1 Shareofthetextilessectorintotalmanufacturing 235
7.2 Physicalvolumeindex(baseyear1988) 236
7.3 Employmentindex(baseyear1988) 237
7.4 Textilesimportsinrelationtotextilessectorgrossproduct 240
7.5 Evolutionoflabourproductivity 245
7.6 Totalfactorproductivity,textilesandtotalmanufacturing,
1988–1995 245
7.7 Shareoftheclothingsectorintotalmanufacturing 252
7.8 Physicalvolumeindex 253
7.9 Employmentindex 253
7.10 Importsintheclothingsectorinrelationtogrossproduct 255
7.11 Evolutionoflabourproductivity 258
7.12 Totalfactorproductivity,clothingandtotalmanufacturing,
1988–1995 258
List of Tables
A2.1 Samplecountries 34
3.1 Grossoutput,import,andexportvalueoftheT&Cindustry 38
3.2 OutputvolumechangesofthemainT&Cproducts 39
3.3 DomesticmarketshareofT&Csectors,1985–2005 40
3.4 Valueaddedandlabourproductivity,1993–2005 41
3.5 Productiveelementsofthetextilessector 42
3.6 Productiveelementsoftheclothingsector 43
3.7 Import–exportofChina’sT&Cproductin1999–2004
($100mill.) 47
3.8 TradecompetitivenessindexofT&Cindustryinselected
countries 50
3.9 Tradecompetitivenessindexoftextilessectorinselected
countries 51
3.9A Tradecompetitivenessindexoftheclothingsectorinselected
countries 51
3.10 RCAindexoftheT&Cindustryinselectedcountries 54
3.11 RCAindexofthetextilessector 55
3.12 RCAindexoftheclothingsector 56
3.13 Comparisonofchemicaltechnologybetween1983and2003 63
3.14 Shareofcombedyarn,non-shuttlecloth,andknotlessyarn 64
3.15 BasicdataoftheYoungorgroup 74
3.16 BasicdataoftheHongdouCorporation 80
3.17 ThebasicstatisticaldataoftheChangshanTextileGroup 85
3.18 EmploymentandassetdataoftheShandongWeiqiao
PioneeringGroup 90
4.1 Employmentinthetextilesindustry,2004–05 103
4.2 Worldcottonproduction 113
4.3 Percapitaavailabilityofcloth 114
4.4 Textilesandgarmentsexportsataglancefrom1992–93to
2005–06 115
4.5 Shareoftextilesitemsexportedtototaltextilesexported 116
4.6 Annualgrowthrateofexportsoftextiles 118
4.7 Performanceoftheshareofitemsintextilesexports 119
4.8 Shareoftextilesexportstototalexports 120
4.9 Compoundgrowthrateoftheexportoftextiles 121
4.10 Exportofalltextileitemsinpercentageterms–major
countries 123
4.11 Totaltextilesimportsataglancefrom1992–93to2005–06 124
ix