Food Consumption in Global Perspective: Essays in the Anthropology of Food in Honour of Jack Goody PDF
Preview Food Consumption in Global Perspective: Essays in the Anthropology of Food in Honour of Jack Goody
ConsumptionandPublicLife SeriesEditors:FrankTrentmannandRichardWilk Titlesinclude: MarkBevirandFrankTrentmann(editors) GOVERNANCE,CITIZENSANDCONSUMERS AgencyandResistanceinContemporaryPolitics MagnusBoströmandMikaelKlintman ECO-STANDARDS,PRODUCTLABELLINGANDGREENCONSUMERISM JacquelineBotterill CONSUMERCULTUREANDPERSONALFINANCE MoneyGoestoMarket DanielThomasCook(editor) LIVEDEXPERIENCESOFPUBLICCONSUMPTION EncounterswithValueinMarketplacesonFiveContinents NickCouldry,SoniaLivingstoneandTimMarkham MEDIACONSUMPTIONANDPUBLICENGAGEMENT BeyondthePresumptionofAttention AnneCronin ADVERTISING,COMMERCIALSPACESANDTHEURBAN JimDavies THEEUROPEANCONSUMERCITIZENINLAWANDPOLICY JosGamble MULTINATIONALRETAILERSANDCONSUMERSINCHINA TransferringOrganizationalPracticesfromtheUnitedKingdomandJapan JakobA.KleinandAnneMurcott FOODCONSUMPTIONINGLOBALPERSPECTIVE EssaysintheAnthropologyofFoodinHonourofJackGoody StephenKline GLOBESITY,FOODMARKETINGANDFAMILYLIFESTYLES EleftheriaLekakis COFFEEACTIVISMANDTHEPOLITICSOFFAIRTRADEANDETHICAL CONSUMPTIONINTHEGLOBALNORTH PoliticalConsumerismandCulturalCitizenship NickOsbaldiston CULTUREOFTHESLOW SocialDecelerationinanAcceleratedWorld LénaPellandini-Simánya CONSUMPTIONNORMSANDEVERYDAYETHICS AmyE.Randall THESOVIETDREAMWORLDOFRETAILTRADEANDCONSUMPTION INTHE1930s RobertaSassatelli FITNESSCULTURE GymsandtheCommercialisationofDisciplineandFun KateSoper,MartinRyleandLynThomas(editors) THEPOLITICSANDPLEASURESOFSHOPPINGDIFFERENTLY BetterthanShopping KateSoperandFrankTrentmann(editors) CITIZENSHIPANDCONSUMPTION YolandeStrengers SMARTENERGYTECHNOLOGIESINEVERYDAYLIFE SmartUtopia? LynThomas(editor) RELIGION,CONSUMERISMANDSUSTAINABILITY ParadiseLost? HaroldWilhite CONSUMPTIONANDTHETRANSFORMATIONOFEVERYDAYLIFE AViewfromSouthIndia ConsumptionandPublicLife SeriesStandingOrderISBN978–1–403–99983–2Hardback 978–1–403–99984–9Paperback (outsideNorthAmericaonly) You can receive future titles in this series as they are published by placing a standing order. Please contact your bookseller or, in case of difficulty, write to usattheaddressbelowwithyournameandaddress,thetitleoftheseriesand theISBNquotedabove. Customer Services Department, Macmillan Distribution Ltd, Houndmills, Basingstoke,HampshireRG216XS,England Food Consumption in Global Perspective Essays in the Anthropology of Food in Honour of Jack Goody Editedby Jakob A. Klein and Anne Murcott SchoolofOrientalandAfricanStudies,UK palgrave macmillan Selectionandeditorialmatter©JakobA.KleinandAnneMurcott2014 Individualchapters©Respectiveauthors2014 Foreword©JackGoody2014 Softcover reprint of the hardcover 1st edition 2014 978-1-137-32640-9 Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction,copyortransmissionofthis publicationmaybemadewithoutwrittenpermission. Noportionofthispublicationmaybereproduced,copiedortransmitted savewithwrittenpermissionorinaccordancewiththeprovisionsofthe Copyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988,orunderthetermsofanylicence permittinglimitedcopyingissuedbytheCopyrightLicensingAgency, SaffronHouse,6–10KirbyStreet,LondonEC1N8TS. Anypersonwhodoesanyunauthorizedactinrelationtothispublication maybeliabletocriminalprosecutionandcivilclaimsfordamages. Theauthorshaveassertedtheirrightstobeidentifiedastheauthorsofthis workinaccordancewiththeCopyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988. Firstpublished2014by PALGRAVEMACMILLAN PalgraveMacmillanintheUKisanimprintofMacmillanPublishersLimited, registeredinEngland,companynumber785998,ofHoundmills,Basingstoke, HampshireRG216XS. PalgraveMacmillanintheUSisadivisionofStMartin’sPressLLC, 175FifthAvenue,NewYork,NY10010. PalgraveMacmillanistheglobalacademicimprintoftheabovecompanies andhascompaniesandrepresentativesthroughouttheworld. Palgrave®andMacmillan®areregisteredtrademarksintheUnitedStates, theUnitedKingdom,Europeandothercountries. ISBN 978-1-349-45974-2 ISBN 978-1-137-32641-6 (eBook) DOI 10.1057/9781137326416 Thisbookisprintedonpapersuitableforrecyclingandmadefromfully managedandsustainedforestsources.Logging,pulpingandmanufacturing processesareexpectedtoconformtotheenvironmentalregulationsofthe countryoforigin. AcataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary. AcatalogrecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheLibraryofCongress. Contents ListofFigures vii ForewordbyJackGoody viii NotesonContributors x 1 Introduction:Cooking,CuisineandClassandthe AnthropologyofFood 1 JakobA.Klein 2 Meat:ACulturalBiographyin(South)China 25 JamesL.Watson 3 FromFastingtoFastFoodinKumasi,Ghana 45 GraciaClark 4 CivilizingTastes:FromCastetoClassinSouth IndianFoodways 65 JamesStaples 5 TheFastandtheFusion:Class,Colonialismandthe RemakingofComidaTípicainHighlandEcuador 87 Emma-JayneAbbots 6 TheHighandtheLowintheMakingofa PortugueseNationalCuisineintheNineteenth andTwentiethCenturies 108 JoséManuelSobral 7 IndigestionintheLongNineteenthCentury:Aspects ofEnglishTasteandAnxiety,1800–1950 135 StephenMennell 8 EatingOutBangladeshi-Style:CateringandClassin DiasporicEastLondon 159 JohanPottier 9 TheTasteforMilkinModernChina(1865–1937) 182 FrançoiseSabban v vi Contents 10 Drink,MealsandSocialBoundaries 209 SamiZubaida Index 224 Figures 7.1 EdwardJukesonindigestionandcostiveness 143 7.2 EdwardJukesonindigestionandcostiveness 144 vii Foreword Michelin, tyres or restaurants? Mycontributiontothestudyoffoodwasmadeverymuchfromahis- torical viewpoint, with a view to trying to explain the broad contrasts betweenAfricaononesideandEurasiaontheother.Ihadbeendrawn tothisproblembyanessaybyaFrenchacademic,whoundertheinflu- ence of structuralist anthropology had compared the food of the two regions in a binary way, to my mind ignoring the basic economic and culturaldifferencesbetweenthetwo:onecannotjustcomparetheprac- ticesinthosetermswithouttakingintoaccountthecentraldifferences intheprocessesofproduction.EuropeandAsia–thatIwantedtodraw together – had to be contrasted in this respect with the areas that had not experienced the Agricultural Revolution of the Bronze Age. The well-known‘structuralist’objectiontohistoricalexplanationscoincided withthefunctionalistones.Thatneglectmadelittlesenseoftheircom- parisons. One had to take into account the historical background – in particular,thegrowthofan‘upper’groupthatpossesseditsowncuisine, its own high status cooking, such as existed in both the East and the WestoftheEurasiancontinent,qualifyingmanyviewsofthesuperiority anduniquenessofEuropeanculture.Itwasthisthatmademebeginmy comparisonofEastandWestinmanysocioculturalfieldsandtoquery itsuniquenessinthedevelopmentofcapitalismandindustrialism. Theideaofone‘culture’,onecooking,mightbeOKforAfricantribes but certainly was not for major Eurasian societies. Differentiation into someformofhighandlowwasintrinsictothosesocieties,withthehigh being enshrined in the written – the early cookbooks. I remember one distinguishedAfricanisttellingmethatone‘informant’wasasgoodas anotherformanypurposes,whileanotherexplainedthatachief’smeal mightconsistofmoreporridgebutthatonedishwasmuchlikeanother. NeitherweretrueinEurasia. As I argue, ‘upper’ food was characterized by the search for distinct ingredients,alreadyapparentinancientRomeandChina.Hencetravel was the key to this form of differentiation, or at least having others totravelonone’sownbehalf.Thiswastransformedwhenonebecame the traveller, not dependent upon the merchant. It is therefore com- pletely understandable why gastronomy and travel should have such a close relationship, as famously in the case of Michelin. This French viii Foreword ix tyremanufacturerbecamelinkedtoitsfamousstarredrestaurants(and maps) because it was anxious to promote travel, initially in Europe where one could get to by car and to which it provided its excellent guides.Gastronomywasonewayinwhichclientscouldbeencouraged totravelthatextramile.Meanwhiletheclientelegrewwiththespread ofcarownershipsothatthedefinitionof‘upper’changedradicallywith the raising of luxury standards of the many bringing with it a shift in thestratificationoffood,althoughthiswassometimesdownwardsasin supermarkets. Thesechangesarenotcapturedbythestandardethnographicanaly- sis,whichhasotheraimsandotheradvantages.Butthisisaproblemof whichwehavetobeaware,especiallyindoingcomparativework.Oth- erwiseoneisstuckinastaticframe,unsatisfactoryfromtheperspective ofthe‘longuedurée’inwhichIwasgettinginvolvedandtowhichthis study,thefirstofaseriesinvolvingtheEastandWest,pointedtheway. Iam most gratefulifmy attempthas drawn attentionto aneglected fieldofobservationanditschangesovertime,leadingtothe‘industri- alizationoffood’. JackGoody StJohnsCollege,Cambridge
The list of books you might like
