Fashioning Spain: From Mantillas to Rosalía

241 Pages·2021·14.75 MB·English

by  Francisco Fernández de Alba and Marcela T. Garcés

Fashioning Spain
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Fashioning Spain : From Mantillas to Rosalía, edited by Alba, Francisco Fernández de, and Marcela T. Garcés, Bloomsbury
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Fashioning Spain : From Mantillas to Rosalía, edited by Alba, Francisco Fernández de, and Marcela T. Garcés, Bloomsbury
Fashioning Spain
From Mantillas to Rosalía
Edited by
Francisco Fernández de Alba and
Marcela T. Garcés
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Fashioning Spain : From Mantillas to Rosalía, edited by Alba, Francisco Fernández de, and Marcela T. Garcés, Bloomsbury
BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS
Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
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1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA
29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland
BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of
Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
First published in Great Britain 2021
Selection, editorial matter, Introductions © Francisco Fernández de
Alba and Marcela T. Garcés, 2021
Individual chapters © Their Authors, 2021
Francisco Fernández de Alba and Marcela T. Garcés have asserted their right
under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifed as
Editors of this work.
For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xii constitute an extension
of this copyright page.
Cover image © Nacho Pinedo.
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evre but can accept no responsibility for any such changes.
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r sth A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
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Fashioning Spain : From Mantillas to Rosalía, edited by Alba, Francisco Fernández de, and Marcela T. Garcés, Bloomsbury
For Alizah Holstein, molecular elegance.
For Yuri Morejón, fount of inspiration and strength.
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Fashioning Spain : From Mantillas to Rosalía, edited by Alba, Francisco Fernández de, and Marcela T. Garcés, Bloomsbury
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Fashioning Spain : From Mantillas to Rosalía, edited by Alba, Francisco Fernández de, and Marcela T. Garcés, Bloomsbury
Contents
List of Illustrations viii
Foreword x
Acknowledgments xii
Note on Translations xii
Introduction: Fashion in Spain: Catalyst for Afect and Identity
Francisco Fernández de Alba and Marcela T. Garcés 1
Part I Identity: Politics and Futures
1 Accessorizing the Nation: Mantillas, Cultural Identity, and Modern
Spain Inés Corujo-Martín 35
2 Bodies of the Future: Comics, Fashion, and 1980s Movida
Alberto Villamandos 59
Part II Picturing Femininity: Film and Photography
3 Women, Fashion, and the Spanish Civil War: From the Fashion
Parade to the Victory Parade Kathleen M. Vernon 85
4 From Market to Feminism: Fashion Photography during the
Franco Dictatorship Olga Sendra Ferrer 103
.d Part III Designing Fashion Stars: Film and Music
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vrese 5 Fashioning Spanish Film Stars: Balenciaga and Conchita
r sth Montenegro Jorge Pérez 125
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uP 7 Te Museo del Traje’s Research on Spanish Prêt-à-Porter
yrub Juan Gutiérrez 165
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oo 8 Curating Catalan Cultural Identity through Dress in the Virtual
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.12 Fashion Museum of Catalonia Nicholas Wolters 187
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Index 217
Fashioning Spain : From Mantillas to Rosalía, edited by Alba, Francisco Fernández de, and Marcela T. Garcés, Bloomsbury
Illustrations
1.1 Juan de la Cruz Cano y Olmedilla. “Maja,” © Biblioteca Nacional
de España, Madrid 38
1.2 Antonio Rodríguez. “Petimetra con mantilla negra transparente
con blondas,” © Museo de Historia de Madrid 40
1.3 Francisco de Goya. Te Duchess of Alba as Maja, 1797,
© Te Hispanic Society of America 41
1.4 Francisco de Goya. Queen María Luisa in a Mantilla, 1799,
© Patrimonio Nacional 42
1.5 Francisco de Goya. Portrait of Doña Antonia de Zárate, c. 1805,
© National Gallery of Ireland 43
2.1 Herikberto MQ. El Libertador (1984) 65
2.2 Herikberto MQ. El Libertador (1984) 67
2.3 Herikberto MQ. El Libertador (1984) 68
2.4 Herikberto MQ. El Libertador (1984) 70
2.5 Herikberto MQ. El Libertador (1984) 72
2.6 Herikberto MQ. El Libertador (1984) 73
2.7 Herikberto MQ. El Libertador (1984) 74
3.1 Ya viene el cortejo (1939) Dir. Carlos Arévalo. Filmoteca Nacional
de España 86
3.2 Ya viene el cortejo (1939) Dir. Carlos Arévalo. Filmoteca Nacional
.d de España 86
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.AS (1936). © International Center of Photography and Magnum Photos 97
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yru 3.6 “Les milicies us necessiten,” Cristóbal Arteche. Print Atlántida A.G.,
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.1 4.1 “El Born” by Oriol Maspons (Barcelona, 1956). © Artists Rights
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2 © Society (ARS), New York/VEGAP, Madrid, 2020 107
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Fashioning Spain : From Mantillas to Rosalía, edited by Alba, Francisco Fernández de, and Marcela T. Garcés, Bloomsbury
Illustrations ix
4.2 “Two models in a bar” by Oriol Maspons (Barcelona, circa 1957).
© Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/VEGAP, Madrid, 2020 109
4.3 “Oriol Maspons and Julio Ubiña photograph a model from Pertegaz”
(1957). © Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/VEGAP,
Madrid, 2020 110
4.4 Leopoldo Pomés, “Original photomontage of an advertisement
for Piuma d’Oro raincoats” (1964). © Leopoldo Pomés, 2020 113
4.5 “A Fashion Session in Barcelona” © Joana Biarnés, 1962 114
6.1 “Malamente” music video directed and produced by CANADA 147
6.2 “Con Altura” music video directed by Director X 154
6.3 “Aute Cuture” music video directed and produced by Bradley
and Pablo 155
6.4 “Aute Cuture” music video directed and produced by Bradley
and Pablo 156
8.1 Woman’s blouse by Fanny Ricot Ruet. Courtesy of the Museu
Virtual de la Moda de Catalunya, 2020 198
8.2 Detail of Figure 8.1. Courtesy of the Museu Virtual de la Moda de
Catalunya, 2020 199
8.3 Eighteenth-century men’s suit. Courtesy of the Museu Virtual
de la Moda de Catalunya, 2020 200
8.4 Detail of Figure 8.3. Courtesy of the Museu Virtual de la Moda
de Catalunya, 2020 201
8.5 Instagram post from March 14, 2018. Museu Virtual de la Moda
de Catalunya 205
8.6 Instagram post from June 4, 2018. Museu Virtual de la Moda de
Catalunya 206
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Fashioning Spain : From Mantillas to Rosalía, edited by Alba, Francisco Fernández de, and Marcela T. Garcés, Bloomsbury