Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide: Natural and Man-made Fibers

273 Pages·2014·46.7 MB·English

by  Johnston

Fabric
for
Fashion
The
Complete
Natural and
Guide man-made fibers
F4F_00_introduction_2e_US.indd 1 29/08/2013 07:49
Published in 2014
by Laurence King Publishing Ltd
361–373 City Road
London EC1V 1LR
tel [phone]
fax [phone]
e-mail
Fabric
for
Fashion
The
Complete
Natural and
Guide man-made fibers
Clive Hallett and
Amanda Johnston
Photo editing and
commissioned photography
by Myka Baum
Laurence King Publishing
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Introduction
Section 1:
Animal fibers
Section 2:
Plant fibers
Section 3:
Man-made fibers
Useful information
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8
Introduction
12
Fibers to fabrics
44
Introducing color
62
Wool
86
Luxury animal fibers
104
Silk
128
Linen
142
Cotton
166
Alternative plant fibers
Synthetic fibers 184
212
Artificial fibers
Fabric and the fashion industry 236
Resources/Glossary 248
262
Index/Credits/Acknowledgments
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6
Introduction
Fashion design and textile knowledge are often taught as
separate disciplines, and knowledge of the rawmaterials
and processes that make up a fabric are not usually
integrated into fashion studies.
A confident understanding of fabrics, and the fibers they
are composed of, is fundamental to the design process,
allowing one tomake informed choices rather than arbitrary
decisions based upon surface appeal.
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7
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This book is intended as an easily navigable fabric lexicon Our relationship with fibers and fabrics is intimate and all-
8 that explores the relationship between fashion and textiles encompassing; we are surrounded by, sleep in, and are clothed
and encourages an awareness of fibers and fabrics in a broader by them. Historically textiles have been valued not only for their
fashion context. It is designed to inform the reader of the practical and aesthetic properties, but also as incredibly powerful
endless possibilities that fabrics offer to the design process. It is cultural indicators. Textiles display the artistry and ingenuity of
not intended as an exhaustive technical manual, but rather as a a civilization, the most precious examples of which even help
tool to inform, inspire, and encourage the creative use of fabrics. to denote status within society. In contemporary life an ever-
The content of the book is intended to support an essential more sophisticated and growing range of fabrics expresses the
knowledge base, which is fundamental to developing a range complex language of fashion.
of fashion products. The textile industry may be simplistically viewed as the
Focusing in turn on animal, plant, and man-made fibers, supplier of the raw materials for the fashion industry, whereas in
each of the three sections considers the origins of specific fibers reality the two industries are inextricably linked. Developments
within these classifications, their history, provenance, and the in the textile industry invariably impact upon the fashion
processing journey to finished fabric. Additionally, it explores the industry, and vice versa. Fabrics are also incredibly powerful as
socioeconomic factors that may have influenced the importance a strong visual indicator of a brand, often defining aspects of a
of a specific fiber, in order to create an awareness of how one’s brand identity.
choice of material may impact upon ecological, sustainable, and The fashion designer’s relationship with fabric is at the
ethical issues. heart of the creative process. The right choice of fabric is
Each section provides an extensive database fundamental to good design and is instrumental to its success.
of terminology, to encourage informed and effective The better the understanding of the material, the more effective
communication with industry professionals. This is is the symbiosis between the design and fabric.
underpinned with information about processes generic to
all fibers regardless of origin. The importance of color is
explored within a separate section, and the final chapter “The future of fashion lies in fabrics. Everything comes
contextualizes the interrelationship of all the components that from fabrics.”
make up the fashion industry. Donna Karan
“The bond between fashion and textiles is one of mutual
dependency and reciprocal influence; a shared destiny based
upon our need for clothing.”
(opposite page) A stunning
Fashion and Textiles: An Overview
creation composed of layers of
Colin Gale and Jasbir Kaur (Berg Publishers, 2004)
different fabrics, encrusted with
beadwork and embroidery over
lace and tulle, by Japanese
designer Tamae Hirokawa for
4% 3% Somarta.
1%
5%
POLYESTER
45%
COTTON
32%
1%
4%
This chart shows recent figures for global textile fiber
demand, illustrating the current worldwide dominance
of low-cost synthetic fibers. In the natural and bio-based 1%
4%
fiber sectors, cotton is the most popular choice.
Statistic source: The Fiber Year, 2010, Oerlikon
Introduction
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COTTON
WOOL
POLYESTER
OTHER NATURALS
RAYONS
POLYAMIDE OTHER CELLULOSICS
POLYPROPYLENE
ACRYLIC
OTHER SYNTHETICS
9
Introduction
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