Cosmetic Science and Technology Series, v.21. Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin

395 Pages·1999·2.55 MB·English

by  Randy Schueller

Conditioning
Agents for
Hair
and Skin
edited by
Randy Schueller
Perry Romanowski
Alberto-Culver Company
Melrose Park, Illinois
MARCEL
MARCEL DEKKER, INC. NEW YORK • BASEL
ISBN: 0-8247-1921-2
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Current printing (last digit);
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PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
About the Series
The Cosmetic Science and Technology series was conceived to permit discus
sion of a broad range of current knowledge and theories of cosmetic science
and technology. The series is made up of books written either by a single
author or by a number of contributors to an edited volume. Authorities from
industry, academia, and the government have participated in writing these
books.
The aim of this series is to cover the many facets of cosmetic science and
technology. Topics are drawn from a wide spectrum of disciplines ranging from
chemistry, physics, biochemistry, and analytical and consumer evaluations to
safety, efficacy, toxicity, and regulatory questions. Organic, inorganic, physi
cal, and polymer chemistry, emulsion technology, microbiology, dermatology,
toxicology, and related fields all play a role in cosmetic science.
There is little commonality in the scientific methods, processes, or for
mulations required for the wide variety of cosmetic and toiletries manufac
tured. Products range from hair care, oral care, and skin care preparations to
lipsticks, nail polishes and extenders, deodorants, body powders, and aerosols
to such products as antiperspirants, dandruff and acne treatments, antimicro
bial soaps, and sunscreens.
Cosmetics and toiletries represent a highly diversified field with many
subsections of science and "art." Indeed, even in these days of high technology,
"art" and intuition continue to play an important part in the development of
formulations, their evaluation, and the selection of raw materials. There is a
III
Iv About the Series
move toward more sophisticated scientific methodologies in the fields of claim
substantiation, safety testing, product evaluation, and chemical analyses and
a better understanding of the properties of skin and hair.
Emphasis in this series is placed on reporting the current status of cos
metic technology and science in addition to historical reviews. The series has
grown, dealing with the constantly changing technologies and trends in the
cosmetic industry, including globalization. Several of the books have been
translated into Japanese and Chinese. Contributions range from highly sophis
ticated and scientific treatises, to primers, descriptions of practical applica
tions, and pragmatic presentations. Authors are encouraged to present their
own concepts as well as established theories. Contributors have been asked
not to shy away from fields that are still in a state of transition, or to hesitate
to present detailed discussions of their own work. Altogether, we intend to
develop in this series a collection of critical surveys and ideas covering diverse
phases of the cosmetic industry.
Conditioning Agents of Hair and Skin is the twenty-first book published
in the Cosmetic Science and Technology series. The book includes detailed
discussions of the biology of skin, the largest component of the human body,
and hair. Not only are skin and hair responsible for our appearance, but they
also provide important protective properties. Two other key areas covered in
the book are the chemicals used as conditioners in hair and skin care products
and the methods and new techniques for determining the efficacy of these
products and their ability to deliver conditioning to skin and hair. In addition
to providing "cosmetic" effects, the conditioning agents must be functional,
provide hair treatment, and make positive contributions to the health of the
skin.
I want to thank all the contributors for taking part in this project and
particularly the editors. Randy Schueller and Perry Romanowski, for develop
ing the concept of this book and contributing a chapter. Special recognition is
also due to Sandra Beberman and the editorial staff at Marcel Dekker, Inc. In
addition, I would like to thank my wife, Eva, without whose constant support
and editorial help I would never have undertaken this project.
Eric Jungermann, Ph.D.
Preface
Biological surfaces, such as hair and skin, are vulnerable to damage from a
variety of external sources. Such damage can make hair rough and unmanage
able and look dull, while skin can become dry, scaly, and itchy. Cosmetic prod
ucts are used to counteract this damage and to make skin and hair look and
feel better; in other words, the products put these surfaces in better condition.
Hair conditioning products are primarily intended to make wet hair easier to
detangle and comb and make dry hair smoother, shinier, and more manage
able. Skin conditioning products are primarily intended to moisturize while
providing protection from the drying effects of sun, wind, and harsh deter
gents. The functional raw materials responsible for the conditioning ability of
these products are the focus of this book.
Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin was prepared by cosmetic formu
lators, for cosmetic formulators. Our objective is to provide information that
is useful to anyone involved in formulating personal care products, from the
novice chemist to the seasoned veteran. For the beginning chemist, we aim to
provide a solid foundation of technical knowledge. For the seasoned formu-
lator, we detail the latest state-of-the-art ingredients and testing procedures
used in their evaluation.
The book is structured to give a complete review of the subject. The
first chapter serves as a general introduction. We define conditioning and
provide an overview of the types of materials and formulations used to achieve
these effects. In addition, we discuss how to evaluate the performance of
Vi Preface
conditioning products. Chapters 2 and 3 review the biological and physico-
chemical aspects of hair and skin in order to provide an understanding of what
conditioning agents should accomplish.
The next several chapters comprise the bulk of the text; they deal with
the individual conditioning agents used in hair and skin care products. The
materials we have included were chosen because of their different conditioning
effects on biological surfaces. This section begins with a review of petrolatum,
an occlusive material that provides conditioning by sealing moisture in skin.
Next is a chapter about humectants, materials that attract and bind water to
skin and hair. Conditioning agents that impart emolliency are described next
in a chapter about esters and oils. The rest of the chapters in this section deal
with ingredients that have an electrostatic affinity for biological surfaces. These
include proteins and classic quaternized ammonium compounds as well as
pseudo-cationic surfactants, like amine oxides. A discussion of cationic poly
mers is included as well. Two chapters in this section discuss novel silicone-
derived materials and how they function in formulations. After discussing chemi
cal raw materials we felt it important to place this information in perspective
by including a review of factors to consider when formulating these materials
into finished products. Finally, we end the book by examining the testing
methods currently available for evaluation of conditioning formulations.
We believe this approach will give the beginner an excellent overview of
the subject while providing the veteran chemist with new insights into raw
materials, formulations, and testing. As in many works of this type, there is
some overlap of material between chapters and, while this may seem redun
dant, it is important to recognize the multifunctionality of many conditioning
agents. As with any work of this nature, the state of the art is constantly chang
ing and we welcome comments from readers to be considered for incorpora
tion into future editions.
Randy Schueller
Perry Romanowski
Contents
About the Series Hi
Preface v
Contributors ix
1 Introduction to Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin 1
Randy Schueller and Perry Romanowski
2 Biology of the Hair and Skin 13
Zoe Diana Draelos
3 The Role of Biological Lipids in Skin Conditioning 35
Peter M. Elias
4 Petrolatum: Conditioning Through Occlusion 57
David S. Morrison
5 Humectants in Personal Care Formulation: A Practical Guide 95
Bruce W. Gesslein
6 Emollient Esters and Oils 111
John Carson and Kevin F. Gallagher
vii
viil Contents
7 Proteins for Conditioning Hair and Skin 139
Gary A. Neudahl
8 Organo-Modified Siloxane Polymers for Conditioning
Skin and Hair 167
Eric S. Abrutyn
9 Specialty Silicone Conditioning Agents 201
Anthony J. O'Lenick, Jr.
10 Cationic Surfactants and Quaternary Derivatives for
Hair and Skin Care 223
Matthew F. Jurcyzk, David T. Floyd, and Burghard H. Gruning
11 Polymers as Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin 251
Bernard Idson
12 Formulating Conditioning Products for Hair and Skin 281
Mort Westman
13 Evaluating Effects of Conditioning Formulations on Hair 301
Janusz Jachowicz
14 Evaluating Performance Benefits of Conditioning
Formulations on Human Skin 337
Ronald L. Rizer, Monya L. Sigler, and David L. Miller
Index 369
Contributors
Eric S. Abrutyn Senior Product Development Leader, The Andrew Jergens
Company, Cincinnati, Ohio
John Carson Technical Director, Croda, Inc., Edison, New Jersey
Zee Diana Draelos Clinical Associate Professor, Department of Dermatol
ogy, Wake Forest University School of Medicine, Winston-Salen, and Derma
tology Consulting Services, High Point, North Carolina
Peter M. Elias Professor of Dermatology, University of California, San
Francisco, and Veterans Affairs Medical Center, San Francisco, California
David T. Floyd Technical Director, Goldschmidt Chemical Corporation,
Hopewell, Virginia
Kevin F. Gallagher Croda, Inc., Edison, New Jersey
Bruce W. Gesslein Technical Manager, Specialty Chemicals Division, Aji-
nomoto U.S.A., Inc., Teaneck, New Jersey
Burghard H. Griining Senior Research Manager, Goldschmidt Chemical
Corporation, Hopewell, Virginia
Ix