Cooking in America, 1590–1840 Trudy Eden Greenwood Press cooking in AMERICA, 1590–1840 The Greenwood Press “Daily Life Through History” Series Jews in the Middle Ages Norman Roth Science and Technology in Colonial America William E. Burns Science and Technology in Nineteenth-Century America Todd Timmons The Mongol Empire George Lane The Byzantine Empire Marcus Rautman Nature and the Environment in Twentieth-Century American Life Brian Black Nature and the Environment in Nineteenth-Century American Life Brian Black Native Americans in the Twentieth Century Donald Fixico Native Americans from Post-Columbian through Nineteenth-Century America Alice Nash and Christoph Strobel Cooking in Europe, 1250–1650 Ken Albala The Black Death Joseph P. Byrne COOKING IN AMERICA, 1590–1840 Trudy Eden The Greenwood Press “Daily Life Through History” Series Cooking Up History Ken Albala, Series Editor Greenwood Press Westport, Connecticut • London Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Eden, Trudy. Cooking in America, 1590–1840 / Trudy Eden. p. cm.—(The Greenwood Press “Daily life through history” series. Cooking up history, ISSN 1080–4749) Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0–313–33567–2 1. Cookery, American—History. 2. Food habits—United States—History. I. Title. II. Series. TX715.E23 2006 394.1’20973—dc22 2006015689 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data is available. Copyright © 2006 by Trudy Eden All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced, by any process or technique, without the express written consent of the publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2006015689 ISBN: 0–313–33567–2 ISSN: 1080–4749 First published in 2006 Greenwood Press, 88 Post Road West, Westport, CT 06881 An imprint of Greenwood Publishing Group Inc. www.greenwood.com Printed in the United States of America The paper used in this book complies with the Permanent Paper Standard issued by the National Information Standards Organization (Z39.48–1984). 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 The publisher has done its best to make sure the instructions and/or recipes in this book are correct. However, users should apply judgment and experience when preparing recipes, especially parents and teachers working with young people. The publisher accepts no responsibility for the outcome of any recipe included in this volume. CONTENTS List of Recipes vii Glossary xv Series Foreword xxi Acknowledgments xxiii Introduction xxv 1. Native Americans 1 2. 1590–1675 15 3. 1675–1740 43 4. 1740–1800 73 5. 1800–1840 101 Suggested Menus 131 Notes 137 Bibliography 139 Index 143 LIST OF RECIPES 1. Native Americans 1. Wickonzowr (Peas) 3 2. The Brwyllinge of Their Fishe Over the Flame 3 3. Their Seethynge of Their Meate in Earthen Pottes 4 4. Tockawhoughe 5 5. Chesnuts and Chechinquamins 6 6. Pawcohiccora 7 7. Putchamins 7 8. Ocoughtanamnis 7 9. Pausarowmena 8 10. Ponap 8 11. Ustatahamen 8 12. Fat Barbacu’d Venison 9 13. Chinkapin or Hickory Meal 9 14. Fawns in Bags 10 15. Dried Fish and Shellfish 10 16. Notassen 11 17. Green-Corn Bread 11 18. Tripe Soup 12 19. Conte 12 20. Pemican and Marrow-Fat 13 Cooking in America, 1590–1840 2. 1590–1675 21. Broth, Strong and Savory Made for the Queen on Mornings 16 22. How to Stew a Calves Head 17 23. How to Farce a Knuckle of Veale 18 24. How to Stew a Neats Tongue 18 25. How to Keep Beefe Three Weekes Fresh Enough to Roast 18 26. How to Stew a Loyne of Lambe 19 27. How to Boyle a Joynt of Lamb 19 28. To Boyle a Leg of Mutton After the French Fashion 19 29. To Roste a Shoulder of Mutton with Blood 20 30. To Hash a Legge of Mutton on the French Fashion 20 31. To Souce a Pigg of 3 or 4 Shillings Price 20 32. To Make a Polonian Sawsedge 21 33. Venison Stew’d a Quick and Frugal Way 21 34. Venison When Tainted How to Recover It 22 35. To Boyle Muggets 22 36. To Make a Pye of Humbles 22 37. A Made Dish of Coney Livers 23 38. Chickens Peeping to Boil After an Incomparable Manner 23 39. Chicken-Pye 24 40. How to Boyle a Chicken 24 41. How to Make White Broth 25 42. An Excellent Way to Roast Pigeons or Chickens 25 43. To Make Beaumanger 26 44. Land-Fowl of Any Sort How to Dress After the Italian Fashion 26 45. Sea-Fowl of Any Sort How to Boil 26 46. Duck Wilde Boiled 27 47. Lobsters Stewed 27 48. Lamprels Boil’d 28 49. To Boyle a Pike 28 50. To Boyle Eels 29 51. To Pickle Salmon to Keep Halfe a Yeare 29 52. How to Barrell Up Oysters, so as They Shall Last for Six Moneths Sweet and Good, and in Their Naturall Taste 30 53. Paste Made of Fish 30 54. Baking Manchets 31 55. Cheate Bread 31 56. How to Make French Barly Puddings 32 57. How to Make a Larger and Daintier Cheese 32 58. Clouted Creame 34 59. To Make Fritters 34 viii List of Recipes 60. A Made Dish 34 61. To Make a Bak’d Almond Pudding 35 62. To Make a Fryde Pudding 35 63. To Make an Apple Tansie 36 64. The Best Ordinary Pottage 37 65. The Best and Daintiest Kind of Pottage 37 66. To Make Pease Porrage of Old Pease 38 67. To Make Green Pease, Porrage 38 68. Simple Sallat 38 69. To Make a Codling Tarte Eyther to Looke Clear or Greene 39 70. The Most Kindly Way to Preserve Plums, Cherries, Gooseberries, &c. 39 71. To Candy Marigolds, Roses, Borrage, or Rosemary Flowers 40 72. To Make Gelly of Straw-berries, Mul-berries, Raspis-berries, or Any Such Tender Fruit 40 73. To Make a Paste of Genna of Quinces 41 74. To Make Macroones 41 75. To Make Puffes 42 3. 1675–1740 76. How to Roule a Coller of Beefe 44 77. To Boyle a Rumpe of Beef 45 78. To Stew Beefe Steaks 46 79. To Roast a Chine, Rib, Loin, Brisket, or Fillet of Beef 47 80. How to Bake a Loyn of Veal 47 81. How to Make Olaves of Veal 47 82. To Stew a Legg of Mutton or Roste It 48 83. How to Stew a Loyne or Neck of Mutton 48 84. A Hot Baked Meat of Compounds 48 85. To Roste a Pigg 50 86. To Boyle a Leg of Pork 50 87. To Make Oxford Kates Saussages 51 88. To Boyle a Trout 51 89. How to Stew a Bream 51 90. How to Roast Oysters 52 91. A Pike Baked in a Pye 52 92. An Eel Pye 53 93. Oyster Pyes 53 94. To Boil Any Old Geese, or Any Geese 53 95. To Bake Pigeons to Be Eaten Cold 54 96. To Bake a Turkey 55 ix
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