Best Food Writing 2012 PDF
Preview Best Food Writing 2012
Hungry for Great Foo d Writing? Contributors include: Elissa Altman • Brett Anderson • Greg Atkinson Bethany Jean Clement John T. Edge Barry Estabrook Rowan Jacobsen • • • welcome to the table. Todd Kliman • Corby Kummer • Francis Lam • David Leite • John Mariani Brett Martin Tom Mueller Christine Muhlke Gary Paul Nabhan • • • Josh Ozersky • Kevin Pang, and more than 30 others E picure, foodie, gastronome, gourmet, gourmand, glutton—whatever term you embrace, our cultural fascination with food shows no sign BEST of waning. And as in previous years, Best Food Writing 2012 is the place food Fbest ood to go for heaping helpings of the most provocative, entertaining, delicious food writing of the year. From Josh Ozersky’s “A Proposal for Feeding the Fat and Anxious” to Bethany Jean Clement’s “The 2011 Dyke March Weiner Taste Writing Test,” Wright Thompson’s “Memphis in May: Pork-a-Looza” to Katharine Shilcutt’s “They Don’t Have Tacos in the Suck,” there’s not a dull moment in the kitchen. With seasoned voices such as John T. Edge and Brett Anderson, 2012 WRITING as well as up-and-comers Tamar Adler, Eric LeMay, and Kevin Pang, there’s 2012 something for every food lover in this exceptional collection. “Holly Hughes has gathered up some of the industry’s fi nest culinary-inspired stories and essays in this year’s dish . . . no overwhelming aftertaste here, Edited by just a smoothly savoring sampler. Enough said. Now dig in.” —San Francisco Book Review HOLLY HUGHES contributors include Tamar Adler • Elissa Altman • Brett Anderson • Greg Atkinson • John Birdsall John Broening • T. Susan Chang • Mei Chin • Henrietta Clancy • Bethany Jean Clement Brent Cunningham • Daniel Duane • Lorraine Eaton • John T. Edge • Barry Estabrook St. John Frizell • Jeff Gordinier • Paul Graham • John Gutekanst • Rachel Hutton Rowan Jacobsen • Todd Kliman • Corby Kummer • Francis Lam • Ed Leibowitz • David Leite Eric LeMay • Rachel Levin • Chris Macia • John Mariani • Brett Martin • Ben Mims Tom Mueller • Christine Muhlke • Erin Byers Murray • Gary Paul Nabhan Richie Nakano • Maureen O’Hagan • Josh Ozersky • Kevin Pang • Deb Perelman Hank Shaw • Katharine Shilcutt • John Spong • Joel Stein • Anna Stoessinger Wright Thompson • Rachel Wharton • Eagranie Yuh • Laura Zandstra $16.00 / $18.50 CAN FOOD/ESSAYS DA CAPO PRESS Holly Hughes Lifelong Books A Lifelong Original Edited by A Member of the Perseus Books Group Cover design by Georgia A. Feldman www.dacapopress.com Cover photograph © Stacey Cramp/Stockfood 9780738216034-text_Layout 1 8/17/12 9:42 AM Page a More Praise for the Best Food Writing Series “This is a book worth devouring.” —Sacramento Bee “The cream of the crop of food writing compilations.” —Milwaukee Journal Sentinel “An exceptional collection worth revisiting, this will be a surefire hit with epicureans and cooks.” —Publishers Weekly, starred review “If you’re looking to find new authors and voices about food, there’s an abundance to chew on here.” —Tampa Tribune “Fascinating to read now, this book will also be interesting to pick up a year from now, or ten years from now.” —Popmatters.com “Some of these stories can make you burn with a need to taste what they’re writing about.” —Los Angeles Times “The book captures the gastronomic zeitgeist in a broad range of essays.” —San Jose Mercury News “The next best thing to eating there is.” —New York Metro “Stories for connoisseurs, celebrations of the specialized, the odd, or simply the excellent.” —Entertainment Weekly “Spans the globe and palate.” —Houston Chronicle “The perfect gift for the literate food lover.” —Pittsburgh Post-Gazette “With this typically delectable and eclectic collection of culinary prose, editor Holly Hughes proves her point made in the intro that the death of 68-year-old Gourmet magazine a year ago didn’t lead to the demise of quality food journalism . . . There’s a mess of vital, provocative, funny and tender stuff . . . in these pages.” —USA Today 9780738216034-text_Layout 1 8/17/12 9:42 AM Page b 9780738216034-text_Layout 1 8/17/12 9:42 AM Page i best WRITING 2012 9780738216034-text_Layout 1 8/17/12 9:42 AM Page ii also edited by holly hughes Best Food Writing 2011 Best Food Writing 2010 Best Food Writing 2009 Best Food Writing 2008 Best Food Writing 2007 Best Food Writing 2006 Best Food Writing 2005 Best Food Writing 2004 Best Food Writing 2003 Best Food Writing 2002 Best Food Writing 2001 Best Food Writing 2000 also by holly hughes Frommer’s 500 Places for Food and Wine Lovers Frommer’s 500 Places to See Before They Disappear Frommer’s 500 Places to Take the Kids Before They Grow Up 9780738216034-text_Layout 1 8/17/12 9:42 AM Page iii best WRITING 2012 Edited by Holly Hughes A Member of the Perseus Books Group 9780738216034-text_Layout 1 8/17/12 9:42 AM Page iv Many of the designations used by manufacturers and sellers to distinguish their products are claimed as trademarks. Where those designations appear in this book and Da Capo Press was aware of a trademark claim, the designations have been printed in initial capital letters. Copyright © 2012 by Holly Hughes Pages 380–384 constitute an extension of the copyright page. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a re- trieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechani- cal, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. Printed in the United States of America. For information, ad- dress Da Capo Press, 44 Farnsworth Street, Third Floor, Boston, MA 02210. Set in 11 point Bembo by the Perseus Books Group Cataloging-in-Publication data for this book is available from the Library of Congress. First Da Capo Press edition 2012 ISBN 978-0-7382-1603-4 Published by Da Capo Press A Member of the Perseus Books Group www.dacapopress.com Da Capo Press books are available at special discounts for bulk purchases in the United States by corporations, institutions, and other organizations. For more in- formation, please contact the Special Markets Department at the Perseus Books Group, 2300 Chestnut Street, Suite 200, Philadelphia, PA 19103, or call (800) 255-1514, or e-mail [email protected]. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 9780738216034-text_Layout 1 8/17/12 9:42 AM Page v Contents (cid:2) Introduction ix By Holly Hughes Food Fights On Killing,From HunterAnglerGardenerCook.com 2 By Hank Shaw The Gumbo Chronicles, From Outside 7 By Rowan Jacobsen Serving Up Sustainability, From Edible Boston 22 By Erin Byers Murray Kids Battle the Lure of Junk Food, From Pacific Northwest Magazine 29 By Maureen O’Hagan Pastoral Romance, From Lapham’s Quarterly 36 By Brent Cunningham Farm to Table Sweet Spot, From Alimentum 48 By Paul Graham Snowville Creamery Has a Modest Goal: Save the World, From Edible Columbus 56 By Eric LeMay Matters of Taste, From Tomatoland 62 By Barry Estabrook Olives and Lives, From Extra Virginity 69 By Tom Mueller This Little Piggy Went to Market, From Memoir Journal 74 By Laura R. Zandstra 9780738216034-text_Layout 1 8/24/12 10:25 AM Page vi vi|Contents Home Cooking How to Live Well, From An Everlasting Meal 82 By Tamar Adler Still Life with Mayonnaise, From At the Kitchen Table 92 By Greg Atkinson The Fried Chicken Evangelist, From Leite’s Culinaria 97 By Lorraine Eaton Lasagna Bolognese, From SmittenKitchen.com 103 By Deb Perelman The Forager at Rest, From Bon Appetit 111 By Christine Muhlke Better Cooking Through Technology, From Technology Review 117 By Corby Kummer Foodways The Pastrami Dilemma, From Chow.com 128 By John Birdsall Passover Goes Gourmet, From Sunset 133 By Rachel Levin The 2011 Dyke March Wiener Taste Test, From The Stranger 136 By Bethany Jean Clement The Missing Link, From The Times-Picayune 140 By Brett Anderson Foraging and Fishing Through the Big Bend, From Desert Terroir 149 By Gary Paul Nabhan Italian America, From Saveur 162 By John Mariani What Makes Sushi Great?, From GiltTaste.com 169 By Francis Lam Food for Thought, From theNew York Times 173 By Jeff Gordinier 9780738216034-text_Layout 1 8/17/12 9:42 AM Page vii Contents|vii Dude Food Learning to Barbecue Helped Make Me a Man, From Food & Wine 180 By Joel Stein Memphis in May: Pork-a-Looza, FromGarden & Gun 185 By Wright Thompson Truffle in Paradise, From Gastronomica 193 By John Gutekanst A Slice of Family History, From Food & Wine 204 By Daniel Duane Barbecue Road Trip: The Smoke Road, From Garden & Gun 208 By John T. Edge The Family Table The Food-Critic Father, From The Washingtonian 214 By Todd Kliman The Legacy That Wasn’t: Wonton Soup, From A Spoonful of Promises 230 By T. Susan Chang Curious Cookies, From Edible Vancouver 237 By Eagranie Yuh Chicken Brick, From Fire & Knives 241 By Henrietta Clancy Angry Breakfast Eggs, From Poor Man’s Feast.com 246 By Elissa Altman Sweet Southern Dream, From Saveur 250 By Ben Mims Someone’s in the Kitchen The King of Pop-Up, From GQ 258 By Brett Martin Hot Plate, From Minnesota Monthly 267 By Rachel Hutton
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