Backpacker's Britain: Northern Scotland: Thirty 2- And 3-Day Treks

291 Pages·2009·9.992 MB·English

by  Uney, Graham

BACKPACKER’S BRITAIN
VOLUME THREE: NORTHERN SCOTLAND –
THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS
2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA LA7 7PY
www.cicerone.co.uk
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Graham’s love of wild places and wildlife has taken him to all corners of the
World. Today, having had 15 books published to date, he works in a number
of fields in addition to being a writer. Part of his time is taken up working as
an ecological surveyor, most recently for the Royal Society for the Protection
of Birds, and for the British Trust for Ornithology, but he also runs navigation
courses under the name of the East Anglia Navigation School in association
with the National Navigation Award Scheme. He lives in the Cambridgeshire
Fens, and spends his spare time enjoying hillwalking, photography, bird ringing,
wildlife watching, rock climbing, cycling, and drinking real ale.
Other Cicerone guides by the author
Backpacker’s Britain Volume 1: Northern England
Backpacker’s Britain Volume 2: Wales
Backpacker’s Britain Volume 4: Central and Southern Scottish Highlands
Walking on the Orkney and Shetland Isles
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BACKPACKER’S BRITAIN
VOLUME THREE: NORTHERN SCOTLAND –
THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS
by
Graham Uney
2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA LA7 7PY
www.cicerone.co.uk
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© Graham Uney 2006
First edition 2006, reprinted 2010 (with updates)
ISBN-10 1 85284 458 2
ISBN-13 978 185284 458 5
E- ISBN9 78 1 8 4 9 6 5 1 1 1 0
Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
All photographs by the author unless otherwise stated.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This book would not be possible without the love and support of my wife, Olivia, and
without the friendship of the many people with whom I have shared the mountains
and glens of Scotland. These are too numerous to mention, but Beryl and Dick
Tudhope deserve a special thanks.
Thanks are also due to the staff of VisitScotland, VisitShetland, VisitOrkney,
Caledonian MacBrayne Ferries, and Northlink Ferries.
I have also been fortunate during the writing of this book to have the technical
support of a number of equipment manufacturers, and my gratitude is extended to
Harvey Maps, Berghaus, Paramo, Hilleberg, and Snugpak for continuing to supply me
with quality outdoor gear.
ADVICE TO READERS
Readers are advised that, while every effort is made by our authors to ensure
the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the
lifetime of an edition. Please check Updates on this book’s page on the Cicerone
website (www.cicerone.co.uk) before planning your trip. We would also advise
that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and
shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful
for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on
the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, 2 Police
Square, Milnthorpe LA7 7PY, United Kingdom.
Front cover: Backpackers on Beinn Bhuidhe in Knoydart
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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
Background ............................................................................................................. 9
How to Use This Guide ..........................................................................................10
Getting Around and Accommodation .................................................................... 13
Safety in the Hills ...................................................................................................13
Navigation ..............................................................................................................17
Equipment ..............................................................................................................18
Food .......................................................................................................................19
Access and the Backpacker.....................................................................................21
Flora and Fauna ..................................................................................................... 23
THE ROUTES
Route 1 Shetland – Esha Ness .................................................................................25
Route 2 Shetland – Mainland South ........................................................................35
Route 3 Shetland – Yell ...........................................................................................45
Route 4 Orkney – Western Mainland ......................................................................54
Route 5 Lewis – Western Mountains .......................................................................62
Route 6 North Harris – Mountains and Moorlands ..................................................69
Route 7 South Uist – the Wild Eastern Coast ...........................................................76
Route 8 Cape Wrath and Sandwood Bay ................................................................83
Route 9 Ben Hope ..................................................................................................92
Route 10 Inverpolly ................................................................................................98
Route 11 Assynt from Inchnadamph .....................................................................105
Route 12 The Munros of the Inverlael Forest .........................................................113
Route 13 Fisherfield and Letterewe .......................................................................121
Route 14 The Applecross Peninsula ......................................................................129
Route 15 The Fannichs Traverse ............................................................................136
Route 16 Torridon from Shieldaig .........................................................................144
Route 17 Coulin Forest from Torridon ...................................................................152
Route 18 The Strath Carron Munros from Craig .................................................... 160
Route 19 The Head of Strathconon ...................................................................... 167
Route 20 The High Traverse of Glen Affric ............................................................175
Route 21 Beinn Fhada and A’ Ghlas Bheinn .........................................................184
Route 22 The High Traverse of Glen Shiel .............................................................192
Route 23 Shiel Bridge to Glenfinnan .....................................................................201
Route 24 The Mountains of Knoydart ....................................................................216
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Route 25 Skye – the Black Cuillin Lochs and Bealachs..........................................227
Route 26 Skye – the Red Cuillin ...........................................................................235
Route 27 Skye – the Trotternish Ridge Traverse ......................................................242
Route 28 Exploring Raasay ...................................................................................252
Route 29 Discovering Rum ...................................................................................260
Route 30 Through the Cona Glen .........................................................................271
APPENDIX I Useful Contacts ................................................................................279
APPENDIX 2 Bibliography ....................................................................................279
APPENDIX 3 Route Summary Table ......................................................................280
APPENDIX 4 Glossary ..........................................................................................282
WARNING
Mountain walking can be a dangerous activity, carrying a risk of personal injury
or death. It should be undertaken only by those with a full understanding of the
risks, and with the training and/or experience to evaluate them. While every
care and effort has been taken in the preparation of this guide, the user should
be aware that conditions can be highly variable and can change quickly, thus
materially affecting the seriousness of a mountain walk.
Therefore, except for any liability that cannot be excluded by law, neither
Cicerone nor the author accepts liability for damage of any nature (including
damage to property, personal injury or death) arising directly or indirectly from
the information in this book.
To call out the mountain rescue, phone 999 from a landline. From a mobile,
phone the international emergency number 112 – this will connect you via
any available network. Once connected to the emergency operator, ask for the
police.
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Map Key
A890 main road
B9078 minor road
main route
alternative route
track
start of route
finish of route
start/finish
loch
ferry
sand
lighthouse
camp
bridge
col or pass
llllllllllllllllllllllllll railway/station
bothy
summit
habitation
* special feature
direction of route
forest
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Northern Scotland –
location of walks
SHETLAND
N 1
3
2
ORKNEY
4
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
S
E
D
RI 8
EB 9
H
5
R
TE 10 11
U 6
O
12 NORTH
SEA
13
16
15
27 17 18 19
21 Inverness
SKY 28 14 22 20 EN
7 E2526 24 23 T GL
A
Mallaig E
R
29 30 G
Fort William
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